Actinidia arguta
Kiwi berry
Common names: Mini kiwi, Grape kiwi, Bavarian kiwi
At a glance
- Light
- Full sun
- Hardiness
- Hardy down to −25 °C
- Pruning
- Feb, Mar, Aug
- Harvest
- Sep–Oct
- Spacing
- 250 cm, rows 350 cm
- Water need
- High
Photo: Sten Porse · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Source
This description was machine-translated.
Description
The plant bears smooth‑skinned, grape‑sized fruits that can be eaten whole with the skin. They taste sweeter and more aromatic than the larger kiwi. It is significantly frost‑hardy, making it suitable for harsh sites. Self‑fertile varieties such as 'Issai' can fruit without a male pollinator.
Care instructions
Plant in a sunny to partially shaded spot with humus‑rich, evenly moist soil and provide a sturdy trellis or pergola. Prune in late winter (February week 8) because the plant is very vigorous. Harvest fruits from September (week 38) when they soften, or pick earlier for ripening.
The care notes were machine-translated from German.
Garden year
HarvestSep–Oct
Soil & site
Soil pH
Soil type
humus-rich, loamy, well-drained, moist, nutrient-rich
The kiwiberry needs a deep, humus-rich and well-drained soil without waterlogging, evenly moist and with a slightly acidic pH (5.5 to 6.5). Avoid chalky soils, because the plant is lime-sensitive and reacts to a pH that is too high with iron and magnesium deficiency. Because it is shallow-rooted, keep the root zone permanently cool and moist with a mulch layer.
Feeding
Heavy feeder
Months
Mar, Apr, Jun
In the first one to two years in position you hardly need to fertilise if you worked ripe compost in when planting. After that, in spring (from March/April) put ripe compost and horn shavings shallowly under the mulch layer, and with heavy fruit set add a second organic application up to about mid-June. Avoid late nitrogen-heavy fertilising after mid-June, because soft late shoots otherwise become frost-sensitive. The kiwiberry is salt-sensitive, so compost is better suited than mineral fertilisers.
Pruning
Prune the kiwiberry like a vine: the main pruning of the fruiting shoots to 3 to 4 buds in late winter (February to mid-March · from week 6), before the sap starts to flow. From March/April it bleeds heavily. In addition, shorten the fruiting shoots in August (week 32) to 8 to 10 leaves beyond the last fruit.
Overwintering
Established kiwiberries are hardy in the lowlands of Germany, Austria and Switzerland and need no protection. Only in the first two years in position, cover the root zone with leaves or bark mulch. When the plant starts into growth in spring, protect the young shoots with horticultural fleece if late frost threatens; put containers against a sheltered house wall and wrap the pot.
Propagation
Methods
- Cuttings
- Layering
- From seed
Cuttings (recommended method, true to type): In June, take semi-ripe shoot tips 10 to 15 cm long with 2 to 3 buds. Cut the base at an angle and lightly nick the bark to expose tissue able to form roots. Insert the cuttings two thirds deep into a well-draining substrate (e.g. coir compost or a sand-peat mix 2:1) and keep them moist and bright but out of direct sun, ideally covered with film or a propagator lid. If a gentle tug on the cutting meets resistance and new shoots appear, it has rooted. You can then move it on the following spring. Alternatively, hardwood cuttings about 15 cm long work, which you take in late autumn or early spring before growth starts.
Layering (simplest method, true to type): In spring or summer, bend a flexible, healthy shoot to the ground, fix the middle section into the soil with a stone or wire staple and keep the spot evenly moist. After a few months, roots form at the buried nodes. You can then separate the new layer and plant it in the desired position.
Sowing (true to species, not true to variety): Stratify the seeds cold for 4 to 8 weeks (in the fridge in damp sand). Soak them in lukewarm water for 24 to 48 hours before sowing and sow in March to April shallowly in fine substrate (light-germinating seed, only press down, do not cover). Keep the temperature between 18 and 24 °C; germination takes 6 to 8 weeks. Note: plants grown from seed flower only after 6 to 8 years, fruit quality varies greatly and you cannot predict the sex. For kiwiberries that come true to variety, therefore prefer cuttings or layering.
Important for pollination: Kiwiberries are dioecious: there are male and female plants, and only the female ones bear fruit, but they need a male plant for pollination (one male pollinates about six females). With cuttings and layering you deliberately propagate a plant of known sex; with sowing, the sex is a gamble. The variety ‘Issai’ is a self-fertile exception and manages without a pollinator plant.
Companion planting
Good neighbors
Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.
For your garden
Grow Kiwi berry yourself
Gartenkern tells you when frost is coming, when to sow and when to harvest, for your location.
Free, no time limit
Notes from real gardens
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From the magazine
Hardy kiwi: the winter-hardy mini kiwi to nibble without peeling
The hardy kiwi is a grape-sized mini kiwi with edible skin and very hardy. How to choose variety and pollinator and give it the right support.
Kiwi: growing the large kiwi in a wine-growing climate
The large, fuzzy kiwi succeeds only in a mild wine-growing climate: male plus female, sheltered spot, sturdy support. When the hardy kiwiberry is the better choice.
Where to get this plant
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