Malva sylvestris
Common Mallow
Common names: Cottage Mallow, Large Cottage Mallow
At a glance
- Light
- Full sun
- Pot size
- from 15 l
- Lifespan
- Biennial
- Hardiness
- Hardy down to −20 °C
- Water need
- Medium
- For children
- Well suited
- Origin
- Native to Germany
Photo: Alvesgaspar · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Source
This description was machine-translated.
Description
The wild mallow creates striking accents with its violet-tinged flowers from June to September and attracts bumblebees and bees. The flowers and young leaves are edible and produce a gentle mucilaginous tea; the flowers also color the infusion a bright blue.
Care instructions
Sow it from April directly into the garden in a sunny, nutrient-rich spot; it germinates reliably and later self-seeds. Water during dry periods, then it blooms more profusely. Harvest the flowers on a dry morning and dry them promptly in shade to preserve the blue color.
The care notes were machine-translated from German.
Garden year
SowingApr–May
HarvestJun–Sep
Germination
- Soil temperature
- from 10 °C, ideally 18 °C
- Days to sprout
- 10 to 21 days
- Light
- Needs darkness to sprout
- Sowing depth
- 0.5 cm
- How to start
- Sow straight into the bed
Soil & site
Soil pH
Soil type
sandy, loamy, clayey, humus-rich, well-drained, nutrient-rich
The common mallow likes loose, deep soil rich in humus and nutrients. Sandy-loamy to loamy-clayey is ideal, so that its long taproot reaches down unhindered. Keep it moderately fresh to slightly dry and avoid waterlogging; it copes well with slightly calcareous soils, but not with acidic peat soils.
Feeding
Medium feeder
Months
Mar–May
You hardly need to feed the common mallow. Its nutrient requirement is low, and the deep taproot largely supplies it itself. On lean soil, work a little ripe compost in shallowly in spring before growth starts, or mix in horn shavings. In nutrient-rich, near-natural locations an addition is usually unnecessary.
Overwintering
The common mallow is hardy in the DACH lowlands and gets through winter without protection thanks to its taproot and leaf buds at ground level; only in very harsh, wind-exposed locations does a cover of leaves do no harm. After flowering, cut the dead stems back close to the ground, but leave the shoots at ground level standing. Since this short-lived plant reliably self-seeds, fallen seeds provide new plants.
Propagation
Methods
- From seed
- Cuttings
The easiest and most reliable way to propagate the common mallow is by sowing, which is its most natural method. You can start the seeds indoors on a windowsill from March or sow directly outdoors from the end of April; sowing directly in the bed in autumn is also possible. Cover the seeds only thinly with soil (light germination is not necessary, but it does not like being buried deep), keep the substrate evenly moist, and after about two weeks the first seedlings appear. Some seed lots germinate unevenly and benefit from a cold stimulus; autumn sowing outdoors takes care of that all by itself. As a biennial to short-lived perennial, the mallow readily self-seeds in suitable locations; just leave a few ripe seed heads standing at the end of the season. Important: the mallow quickly forms a deep taproot. Plant seedlings started indoors in their final place as early as possible. The longer you wait, the harder it is to transplant, and older specimens hardly tolerate transplanting at all. Cuttings are possible as an additional method, but much less reliable: in June cut non-flowering shoots about 10 to 15 cm long, remove the lower leaves and put the cuttings in moist substrate, bright but without direct midday sun. You are better off skipping division, because owing to the taproot the mallow forms no divisible root ball and survives the digging up of older plants badly.
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