Peony

The common peony is fully hardy and needs no protection in the lowlands of Germany, Austria and Switzerland; only freshly planted specimens get a loose cover of brushwood in their first winter. In autumn, after the first frost, on a dry day, cut the withered foliage back close to the ground and remove it so that fungi find no place to overwinter.

The tried-and-tested method for Paeonia officinalis is root division in early autumn, best from the beginning of September to the end of October, when the plant goes dormant. Dig the root ball out generously with the spade and lift the whole plant. Divide the root ball with a sharp knife so that each piece carries at least 3 to 5 of the typical red shoot buds (“eyes”). Plant the pieces immediately in a sunny spot in loose, free-draining soil. The eyes should lie only about 3 to 5 cm below the soil surface. Peonies planted too deep produce plenty of foliage but few or no flowers. After one to two years the divisions usually flower again. True cuttings do not work with the herbaceous peony, as it forms no woody shoots. Division is the reliable way here.

Sowing is possible but very time-consuming: sow fresh seed straight after it ripens in late summer, because fresh seed germinates much better than dried. Peony seeds are cold-stratification seeds with a double dormancy: a hard seed coat and germination-inhibiting substances delay germination, which often happens only after the second winter. Keep the compost permanently and lightly moist and be patient with the sowing. Seedlings flower only after about 4 to 7 years, and with cultivars the offspring are mostly not true to type. Sowing is therefore worthwhile mainly for wild types or for new breeding.