Tulipa gesneriana
Tulip
Common names: Garden tulip
At a glance
- Light
- Full sun
- Pot size
- from 3 l
- Lifespan
- Perennial
- Hardiness
- Hardy down to −15 °C
- Water need
- Medium
Photo: Katalinks (who is also "Екатерина"). Original uploader was Katalinks a… · Public Domain · Source
This description was machine-translated.
Description
The tulip is the embodiment of spring and blooms from April to May depending on the variety in an almost uncountable variety of colors and shapes. The bulbous flower is suitable for beds, containers, and as a cut flower. Early, mid, and late varieties can be combined to create a long flowering period.
Care instructions
Plant the bulbs from September to November at a depth about twice their height in well-draining soil in a sunny spot. Allow the foliage to fully die back after flowering before removing it, so the bulb stores energy for the next year. In heavy, wet soils, lift the bulbs after the foliage has died back and store them dry over the summer.
The care notes were machine-translated from German.
Garden year
PlantingSep–Nov
HarvestApr–May
Soil & site
Soil pH
Soil type
loamy, sandy, humus-rich, well-drained, nutrient-rich
Plant the tulip in loose, free-draining soil without waterlogging. On wet ground the bulbs rot quickly. Loosen heavy loam soils with sand before planting; a neutral to slightly chalky soil is well tolerated, while strongly acidic soils inhibit growth.
Feeding
Medium feeder
Months
Mar, Apr, May, Sep, Oct
When planting in autumn (September/October), work some mature compost into the planting hole; this supplies the bulbs for spring growth. On poor soil, additionally mix in horn shavings shallowly. Tulips are not heavy feeders and need little nitrogen: after flowering, do not feed with nitrogen-heavy fertiliser any more, so that the bulbs can die back in peace.
Overwintering
Tulip bulbs simply stay in the ground in the bed. They are fully hardy and even need the cold stimulus for flowering in spring; just provide free-draining soil, because waterlogging harms more than frost. Put container tulips, by contrast, somewhere cool but frost-free (e.g. a garage), because pots freeze through from all sides.
Propagation
Methods
- Offsets
The easiest way to propagate tulips is by offset bulbs (daughter bulbs), which form at the side of the mother bulb during the growing phase. Wait until the foliage has died back completely and turned yellow. That is usually in June, about six to eight weeks after flowering. Then carefully dig the bulbs up with a garden fork on a dry day, separate the offset bulbs with your fingers or a clean knife and store them over summer cool, dry and dark. In autumn (October to November) you plant mother and offset bulbs in their new place. The planting depth should be about twice the bulb diameter (around 10 to 15 cm for large bulbs), pointed end up. Smaller offset bulbs usually need two to three years before they can flower, and in the first spring often show only a tuft of leaves; larger ones flower sooner. Sowing is not recommended for garden tulip hybrids: seedlings do not come true and need five to seven years to first flowering.
Companion planting
Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.
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From the magazine
March: When the Sowing Season Begins
March is the starting gun: the soil wakes up, the first seeds can go straight into the bed, and in the ornamental garden tulips and daffodils light up. We'll show you what to sow, plant and prune now.
Planting spring bulbs in autumn: depth, timing and vole protection
How to plant tulips, daffodils and crocuses in autumn: twice as deep as tall, at the right time and protected from voles.
