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Prunus dulcis

Almond

Common names: Almond tree, True almond, Sweet almond

At a glance

Light
Full sun
Hardiness
Hardy down to −20 °C
Pruning
Aug–Sep
Harvest
Sep–Oct
Spacing
500 cm, rows 550 cm
Water need
Low
Almond

Photo: Franz Eugen Köhler, Köhler's Medizinal-Pflanzen · Public Domain · Source

This description was machine-translated.

Description

The almond tree already enchants in March with pink‑white blossoms, long before other fruit shrubs awaken. In mild wine‑growing climates the stone fruits ripen into edible almonds. Choose self‑fertile varieties such as "Dürkheimer Krachmandel" for guaranteed yield, as early flowering frost threatens the heat‑loving species.

Care instructions

Plant the almond in the warmest, sunniest spot of the garden, preferably a sheltered south wall. The soil should be well‑drained and calcareous; waterlogging is deadly. Protect the early bloom (March week 12) from frost nights with fleece and harvest the almonds in September week 38 when the leathery outer hull splits.

The care notes were machine-translated from German.

Garden year

HarvestSep–Oct

Soil & site

Soil pH

4.0pH 6.5–7.88.0

Soil type

sandy, loamy, well-drained, lime-loving, nutrient-rich

LightFull sun
Hours of sunat least 7 h a day
HardinessHardy with protection
Water needLow

Plant the almond in warm, deep, well-drained soil with a neutral to slightly alkaline pH; calcareous, sandy loam soils are ideal. You must definitely avoid waterlogging. It tolerates dry spells much better than wet feet, and heavy or compacted soils are unsuitable.

Feeding

Medium feeder

Months

Mar, Oct

In early spring before flowering, work ripe compost shallowly into the tree circle and add a little horn shavings. In autumn after harvest, apply a helping of compost as a mulch layer. From early summer do not feed any more, so that the wood ripens in time and becomes frost-hardy.

Pruning

MonthsAug–Sep
SeasonSummer (after harvest)
Pruning typeMaintenance pruning

Prune your almond in dry weather in late summer after harvest (August to September, weeks 32 to 39); this way the wounds heal well and the crown stays loose and airy. Keep it open instead of rejuvenating it heavily, and skip winter pruning.

Overwintering

Established almond trees get through winters in the DACH lowlands in the ground. The wood is frost-hardy down to about -15 °C; young trees (1 to 3 years) you protect in their first winter by wrapping the trunk in horticultural fleece and a mulch layer of leaves or brushwood over the root zone, and a warm, wind-sheltered spot in front of a south-facing wall noticeably reduces the risk. The biggest problem is not winter frost but late frosts in February/March during the early flowering: if night frosts threaten then, loosely wrap the crown in a light frost-protection fleece and take it off again during the day so that bees can reach the flowers; container almonds you bring to a cool, bright place (5 to 10 °C) before hard frost and only put back outside after the Ice Saints in mid-May.

Propagation

Methods

  • Grafting
  • From seed

True-to-type propagation of the almond succeeds reliably only by grafting. Seedlings of peach, plum, apricot or almond itself are suitable as rootstock; peach rootstocks are the easiest to obtain for the home garden. Budding (T-budding or chip budding) is the most common method: bud in July onto plum rootstocks, or in August to September onto peach and almond rootstocks, when the bark lifts well. For whip-and-tongue grafting or cleft grafting you choose late winter, shortly before growth starts. Make sure that scion and rootstock come from healthy, strong shoots.

You can try raising almonds from seed in the home garden, but the seedlings are NOT true to type and often bear bitter or lower-yielding fruit. For your own raising: carefully crack the hard shell, soak the kernel for 24 hours, and then stratify it for 8 to 12 weeks, moist and cool (about 4 °C), in the fridge. Then sow it at about 20 °C in nutrient-poor, well-drained substrate about 1 to 1.5 cm deep. Germination takes 2 to 4 weeks. Sowing is suitable as a learning project or for raising rootstock seedlings for later grafting.

Cuttings hardly root at all with the almond (described in the specialist literature as hard to root/“recalcitrant”, hardwood cuttings often without success) and are not recommended in the home garden. Layering is likewise not very promising. Stick to grafting for true-to-type plants and use sowing only for rootstocks or for experimenting.

Companion planting

Good neighbors

amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae)

You can plant garlic and chives under strawberries and roses; their scent repels aphids and other pests.

For example GarlicOnionLeekChivesWild daffodilRocambole and 12 more species in the catalogue

Source: Bio-Gärtnerei Mixed Culture Practice

Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.

Some of these explanations were machine-translated.

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