Rubus × loganobaccus
Loganberry
At a glance
- Light
- Full sun
- Hardiness
- Hardy down to −18 °C
- Pruning
- Aug–Sep
- Harvest
- Jul–Aug
- Spacing
- 200 cm, rows 250 cm
- Water need
- Medium
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This description was machine-translated.
Description
The Loganberry is an old hybrid of blackberry and raspberry, producing elongated, dark‑red fruits with a strong, tart flavor. Raw berries are somewhat astringent, but cooked into jam or jelly they are delightful.
Care instructions
Plant the Loganberry in autumn (October, week 43) in a sunny, wind‑protected spot and attach the canes broadly to a sturdy trellis. After harvest, prune the spent canes back and train the new shoots for the next season. Mulch the root zone and water evenly from July through the ripening period.
The care notes were machine-translated from German.
Garden year
HarvestJul–Aug
Soil & site
Soil pH
Soil type
sandy, loamy, humus-rich, well-drained, nutrient-rich
Plant the loganberry in deep, free-draining, humus-rich garden soil without waterlogging. Loosen heavy loam or clay soils with sand and mature compost before planting. The soil may be fresh and nutrient-rich; as a Rubus hybrid, it likes slightly acidic conditions (pH 5.5 to 6.5), and on calcareous soils above pH 7, chlorosis threatens.
Feeding
Heavy feeder
Months
Mar, Apr, Jun, Oct
In spring before growth starts, work mature compost and horn shavings shallowly around the plant, without damaging the surface roots. With strong shoot growth in early summer you can give a second light organic dose. In autumn after harvest, apply a mulch layer of compost. Go easy on nitrogen: too much promotes long trailing growth at the expense of fruit. Potassium-rich organic doses strengthen the plant for winter.
Pruning
The loganberry fruits only on two-year-old canes: cut the spent canes back close to the ground straight after harvest (usually August in the Central European lowlands) and tie the strongest 5 to 6 new canes to the trellis. This makes room and air for the young canes that will fruit next year.
Overwintering
The loganberry is hardy down to about -18 °C, but at exposed or harsh sites you cover the root area with leaves or brushwood and take the long young canes off the trellis, to protect them bundled close to the ground with brushwood from frost and wind desiccation. In spring you tie them back to the wire framework; spent canes you cut out close to the ground after harvest anyway.
Propagation
Methods
- Layering
- Cuttings
Tip layering is the simplest and most often recommended method. In July or August, choose a long, strong new shoot and bend its tip down to the ground. Bury the tip about 8–10 cm deep in a small hole or a sunken pot with free-draining soil and fix the arch with a wire staple or a flat stone; the shoot tip may peep out just a little. By the following February a root ball has formed at the buried tip; then you can cut the connection to the mother plant and move the young plant to its final position. Cuttings work as an alternative: leaf-bud cuttings can be rooted in July/August in a covered, shady frame in sandy, moist soil (about a hand's width apart). Hardwood cuttings from the dormant season are also possible: cut sections 15–20 cm long with several eyes and insert them at a slant deep into loose, evenly moist soil so that only the top eye peeps out. Sowing seed is not true to type for the loganberry as a hybrid and therefore not sensible.
Companion planting
Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.
Some of these explanations were machine-translated.
For your garden
Grow Loganberry yourself
Gartenkern tells you when frost is coming, when to sow and when to harvest, for your location.
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