Malus sylvestris
European Wild Apple
Common names: Wood Apple, Wild Apple
At a glance
- Light
- Full sun
- Hardiness
- Hardy down to −30 °C
- Pruning
- Feb–Mar
- Harvest
- Sep–Oct
- Spacing
- 500 cm, rows 500 cm
- Water need
- Low
- Origin
- Native to Germany
This description was machine-translated.
Description
The European Wild Apple (Malus sylvestris) is the wild progenitor of cultivated apples and a valuable tree for naturalistic gardens. Its small, tart fruits are almost inedible raw but become a flavorful jelly when cooked, and they provide winter food for birds. As a hardy wild tree, it is extremely frost‑tolerant and serves as a good pollinator for other apple varieties.
Care instructions
Plant the tree in a sunny to partially shaded spot on almost any garden soil; it is low‑maintenance. Best established in autumn (around week 45 of November). Water regularly only during the first year. Pruning is rarely needed, allow its natural, somewhat sparse crown to develop. Harvest the fruit from September onward for jelly.
The care notes were machine-translated from German.
Garden year
HarvestSep–Oct
Soil & site
Soil pH
Soil type
loamy, well-drained, humus-rich, lime-loving, nutrient-rich
Give the European crab apple a fresh, nutrient-rich, base-rich, deep loam soil with a good share of stones, like those at natural woodland edges or in floodplain forests. The soil must drain well, as it does not tolerate waterlogging; neutral to slightly acidic soils suit it, and it tolerates lime but does not need a distinctly chalky soil, and it avoids strongly acidic boggy soils.
Feeding
Medium feeder
Months
Mar–Apr
In spring (March/April), work ripe compost shallowly into the soil around the base of the tree and rake horn shavings in lightly, so that the nitrogen is released slowly. As an undemanding wild tree, the European crab apple needs less than cultivated varieties: feed sparingly, otherwise growth comes at the expense of blossom.
Pruning
Prune the European crab apple in late winter (February to early March · weeks 6 to 10) while it is dormant, on a frost-free day before the buds break. The bare crown is easy to survey and wounds heal cleanly. As a wild tree, it needs only a light thinning cut: remove dead wood and rubbing branches and otherwise leave its natural silhouette alone.
Overwintering
The European crab apple is a native wild tree and gets through the winters of the lowlands of Germany, Austria and Switzerland outdoors without any trouble. Winter protection is not necessary; it drops its leaves and goes into winter dormancy by itself. It is best to give it a light shaping cut in late winter (February/March) on a frost-free day; otherwise, simply leave it alone.
Propagation
Methods
- From seed
- Cuttings
- Grafting
- Layering
You can raise the European crab apple well from seed, because it is a native wild species and not a grafted cultivated apple. Take the seeds from ripe fruits in autumn and stratify them for about three months at around 1 °C in moist sand or in the fridge. From February/March you can sow the pre-chilled seeds about one centimetre deep in seed compost and let them germinate in cool to moderately warm conditions. Note: wild apples are cross-pollinators. If cultivated apples grew nearby, the seedlings may be hybrids. For reliably wild types, take seed from isolated wild populations.
Cuttings are possible but demanding, because apples generally root slowly. At the start of the growing season, from spring to early summer, cut shoot sections from this year's wood (about 8 to 15 cm), cutting directly below a node, remove the lower leaves (keep only 2 to 3 leaves) and insert them about one third of their length into a free-draining mix of sand and seed compost. Keep them moist and bright under a half-open clear cover, but out of strong midday sun. Expect several weeks until the first rooting and only a moderate success rate.
Layering is often more reliable than cuttings, because the shoot continues to be supplied by the mother plant while it roots. In spring, bend a young shoot close to the ground downwards, lightly score the bark where it touches the soil, fix it there and cover it with soil; the shoot tip sticks out. Keep the spot moist throughout the season. Once the layer has formed its own roots, by autumn of the following year, you can separate it from the mother plant and move it.
Grafting is the method of choice if you want to preserve a particular provenance true to type. Cut scions in December/January during dormancy and store them cool and slightly moist until grafting. Whip-and-tongue graft from February to April when rootstock and scion have the same diameter; alternatively, bud-graft in July/August when the bark of the rootstock lifts easily. Malus sylvestris itself or a common apple seedling rootstock is suitable as a rootstock.
Companion planting
Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.
Some of these explanations were machine-translated.
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