Rosa 'Climbing'
Climbing rose
Common names: Rambler rose, Twining rose
At a glance
- Light
- Full sun
- Hardiness
- Hardy down to −23 °C
- Pruning
- Mar–Apr
- Spacing
- 150 cm, rows 200 cm
- Water need
- Medium
Photo: Kurt Stüber [1] · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Source
This description was machine-translated.
Description
Climbing roses green up trellises, pergolas and house walls with long, flexible shoots and abundant flowers. Repeat-blooming varieties such as 'New Dawn' provide flowers from June to frost, while single-blooming rambler roses produce a spectacular display of blooms in June. Planting them with lavender or garlic keeps them healthier.
Care instructions
Plant the climbing rose in autumn (October week 43) or spring in a sunny, airy spot with deep soil and tie the main shoots horizontally to the trellis to promote abundant flowering. Prune repeat-blooming varieties in spring (March week 12) and remove spent blooms regularly. Water in the morning at the roots so that the foliage stays dry and powdery mildew does not develop.
The care notes were machine-translated from German.
Soil & site
Soil pH
Soil type
loamy, humus-rich, well-drained, nutrient-rich
Climbing roses need a deep, loamy, humus-rich and nutrient-rich soil that absorbs water well but does not form waterlogging. Loosen heavy clay soil with coarse sand and ripe compost; enrich light sandy soil with compost and a little loam; if the pH is below 6.0, you can raise it slightly with lime.
Feeding
Heavy feeder
Months
Mar, Apr, Jun
In spring, when the forsythia flowers (March/April), work ripe compost and horn shavings shallowly into the soil. This feeds the rose slowly over the whole growing phase. After the main flowering (end of June), give a second application of compost on top to encourage the next flush of flowers. From the end of July, stop fertilising with nitrogen-heavy products, so that the shoots ripen in time and come through the winter well. Laying a thin layer of compost as mulch in autumn every two to three years improves the soil structure and protects the roots.
Pruning
Prune repeat-flowering climbing roses when the forsythia is in bloom (usually March to April), when hard frosts are no longer a threat: shorten side shoots to 3 to 5 buds. Once-flowering ramblers flower on the previous year's wood, so you prune them only after flowering in summer.
Overwintering
In late autumn, earth up the root zone and the graft union with garden soil or ripe compost (not bark mulch, which draws nitrogen out of the soil). Loosely tie the long shoots together on the trellis and cover them against frost desiccation with fir brushwood or breathable hessian, never with airtight film; remove the protection gradually in spring on a cloudy day.
Propagation
Methods
- Cuttings
- Layering
The most reliable ways to propagate climbing roses are cuttings or layering. Both methods give own-root plants that come true, without the effort of grafting.
Cuttings (end of June to early August): Choose healthy, semi-ripe shoots straight after the first flowering, about pencil-thick and with around five buds. Cut them to 15 to 20 cm long, remove the lower leaves and the shoot tip, leaving the top pair of leaves. Insert the cuttings half their length into loose, sandy seed compost and keep the soil evenly moist. A plastic bottle or transparent lid placed over them keeps the humidity high and speeds up rooting. After about 6 to 8 weeks roots have usually formed; plant them out the next spring.
Hardwood cuttings (late autumn, October to November): Shorten fully woody, leafless shoots to 20 to 30 cm, cutting the lower end at an angle and the upper end straight. Bury them directly outdoors so that only the top bud sticks out. A fleece protects against frost over winter. Lift them as independent plants only in autumn of the following year.
Layering (late summer, August to September): Particularly well suited to climbing roses, because their long, flexible shoots are easily led down to the ground. Lightly nick a healthy one- to two-year-old shoot on the underside at the spot where it is to touch the ground. Lay the nicked section in a hollow about 20 cm deep, cover it with soil and fix it with a hook; the shoot tip (at least 20 to 30 cm) points upright. Keep the soil moist. By autumn it has developed its own root system; the following spring, separate it from the mother plant and transplant it.
Note: sowing is ruled out, since bred climbing rose varieties and hybrids are not passed on true to type through seed (the genetic material segregates).
Companion planting
Good neighbors
amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae)
You can plant garlic and chives under strawberries and roses; their scent repels aphids and other pests.
For example OnionLeekWild daffodilRocamboleElephant garlicRed Onion and 8 more species in the catalogue
Source: Bio-Gärtnerei Mixed Culture Practice
Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.
Some of these explanations were machine-translated.
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