Bay laurel

Bay is only conditionally hardy and needs protection in the Central European lowlands. In a container, bring it before the first frost to a bright, frost-free place (cool, about 5 to 10 °C). It is evergreen, so do not put it in the dark, and water only sparingly once the soil has dried on top. When planted out (only in mild sites), mulch the root area thickly with leaves or brushwood and wrap the crown in horticultural fleece when frost is forecast, taking it off again in a thaw.

Cuttings (recommended method): From July to August, take semi-ripe shoot tips about 15 cm long. They should be neither still completely soft nor already strongly woody. Cut directly below a leaf node. Remove the leaves on the lower third so that only one or two pairs of leaves remain, and shorten the remaining leaves by half to reduce evaporation. Insert the cuttings in a mix of seed compost and coarse sand (1:1) and keep the substrate evenly moist. Place the pots warm and bright, but out of direct sun. Rooting can take several weeks to months; as soon as strong roots and new shoots appear, pot on into more nutrient-rich soil.

Layering (reliable, but slow): In spring or early summer, bend a young, flexible shoot down to the ground, lightly score it with a knife at the point where it touches the soil, weigh the spot down with soil and keep it moist. The mother plant supplies the layer during root formation. After about two months, or up to several months, it has formed roots of its own and can be separated. Particularly practical for shrubs grown outdoors.

Sowing (for the patient): Take the stones out of ripe, fresh fruits (autumn) and sow them as fresh as possible, because viability drops quickly. Soak the seeds in water for one to two days beforehand. Keep the seed container warm (around 20 °C) and evenly moist, but not wet, because the seeds rot easily. Germination is erratic and can take several weeks to three, four months; expect only about half to come up. Unsuitable for cultivars true to type, as the offspring vary.