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Prunus domestica subsp. syriaca

Mirabelle plum

Common names: Yellow plum

At a glance

Light
Full sun
Hardiness
Hardy down to −25 °C
Pruning
Aug–Sep
Harvest
Aug–Sep
Spacing
400 cm, rows 450 cm
Water need
Medium
Mirabelle plum

This description was machine-translated.

Description

The Mirabelle is a small, golden‑yellow subspecies of plum with especially sweet, aromatic flesh that separates easily from the stone. Varieties such as 'Nancy' are prolific and usually self‑fertile. Fresh, as a dessert topping, or processed into jam and brandy, it is a classic in home gardens.

Care instructions

Plant the Mirabelle in a sunny, warm spot with nutrient‑rich, well‑drained soil. Water during dry periods in the first few years, especially while fruiting. Lightly prune immediately after harvest in August or September to keep the canopy airy, stone fruits do not tolerate heavy winter pruning well. Harvest fully ripe fruit from August to September.

The care notes were machine-translated from German.

Garden year

HarvestAug–Sep

Soil & site

Soil pH

4.0pH 6–78.0

Soil type

loamy, humus-rich, well-drained, moist, nutrient-rich

LightFull sun
Hours of sunat least 6 h a day
HardinessHardy
Water needMedium

Plant the mirabelle in medium-heavy, humus-rich, well-drained soil; loamy-sandy is ideal. Keep it fresh to slightly moist, as it does not tolerate waterlogging; slightly calcareous, neutral soils up to pH 7 are favourable.

Feeding

Medium feeder

Months

Mar–May

In early spring (March/April), spread mature compost shallowly over the tree's root zone and rake it in lightly. If growth is weak, a small second dose of organic, nitrogen-rich material (e.g. horn shavings) at the beginning of May helps to support fruit set. Do not overdo the nitrogen, because too much shoot growth comes at the expense of fruit quality. On well-supplied garden soil, the one dose of compost in spring is usually enough.

Pruning

MonthsAug–Sep
SeasonSummer (after harvest)
Pruning typeMaintenance pruning

Prune your mirabelle in summer straight after harvest (August to early September, weeks 32–36) in dry weather, not in winter. That way the wounds heal quickly while the sap is flowing freely and you avoid gummosis; stick to a restrained maintenance prune, as it fruits on multi-year fruiting wood.

Overwintering

Established mirabelles overwinter outdoors without protection in the lowlands of Germany, Austria and Switzerland. No wrapping, no bringing indoors. For young trees, wrap the trunk in hessian or horticultural fleece against frost cracks in the first two to three winters and lay a layer of mulch or leaves over the root zone; from the third to fourth year you can leave this off.

Propagation

Methods

  • Grafting
  • Cuttings
  • Division

The most reliable method for propagating a mirabelle true to the cultivar is grafting onto a rootstock. Seedlings grown from stones do not come true to the cultivar and bear fruit only after many years, so sowing is ruled out for propagating the cultivar. Suitable rootstocks are myrobalan (Prunus cerasifera, robust and vigorous, for heavy or dry soils, though it produces suckers itself), St. Julien A (somewhat smaller trees, good for the home garden, produces no suckers, likes better soils) or Wangenheim (growing somewhat less vigorously than St. Julien A). For budding (T-budding onto a dormant bud), in July or August cut a ripe bud from this year's shoot and insert it under the bark of the rootstock. Whip-and-tongue grafting (straight cut on both partners, bound with grafting tape) works in early spring (February to April) before bud break. The rootstock should be about pencil-thick and as close as possible in thickness to the scion.

If you have a mirabelle tree on its own roots (not grafted), you can use suckers for division: in early summer, shoots sometimes appear around the trunk. Lift them carefully with a spade, make sure the shoot already has its own roots, and plant it straight away in its new position. Important: on grafted trees, suckers always come from the rootstock. They will not become a mirabelle, but the rootstock variety.

Cuttings are another option, though with a much lower take rate. In spring, take semi-hardwood shoots about 10 to 15 cm long, remove the lower leaves and insert them in a loose, well-moistened substrate. Put the pots somewhere bright but sheltered from direct sun, and keep the substrate evenly moist. Rooting takes several weeks.

Companion planting

Good neighbors

amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae)

You can plant garlic and chives under strawberries and roses; their scent repels aphids and other pests.

For example GarlicOnionLeekChivesWild daffodilRocambole and 12 more species in the catalogue

Source: Bio-Gärtnerei Mixed Culture Practice

Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.

Some of these explanations were machine-translated.

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For your garden

Grow Mirabelle plum yourself

Gartenkern tells you when frost is coming, when to sow and when to harvest, for your location.

Varieties

4 varieties
View all 4 varieties

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