Hemerocallis fulva
Daylily
Common names: Brown‑red Daylily, Yellow‑red Daylily, Farmer's Daylily
At a glance
- Light
- Full sun
- Pot size
- from 20 l
- Lifespan
- Perennial
- Hardiness
- Hardy down to −25 °C
- Water need
- Medium
Photo: Diego Delso · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Source
This description was machine-translated.
Description
The daylily is one of the most resilient perennials: each flower lasts only one day, yet from June to August it tirelessly produces new blooms. Its robust stalks outcompete weeds and thrive even in challenging spots. The flowers and young shoots of the brown‑red daylily are edible and taste mildly sweet in salads.
Care instructions
Plant the daylily in ordinary, not overly dry soil at a sunny to semi‑shaded spot, it is highly adaptable. Water during the main flowering period if dry, otherwise natural rain is sufficient. Pinch off spent blooms for a tidy appearance and cut back the foliage in late autumn (November, week 46). Every three to four years, you can divide the stalks in spring.
The care notes were machine-translated from German.
Soil & site
Soil pH
Soil type
loamy, humus-rich, well-drained, nutrient-rich
Daylilies cope with almost any normal garden soil, and are happiest in loose, humus-rich and free-draining soil that stays fresh to moist. Avoid waterlogging, hot sandy soils and heavily compacted spots; the pH may be slightly acidic to neutral, and lime is tolerated.
Feeding
Medium feeder
Months
Mar, Apr, Jun
In early spring as growth starts (March/April), work mature compost shallowly around the perennial or scatter horn shavings on the surface. You can give a second light application of compost or nettle feed after flowering in June. Be rather sparing: over-feeding promotes leaf mass at the expense of flowers.
Overwintering
The daylily is a completely hardy perennial and needs no winter protection outdoors. The fleshy storage roots come through the Central European lowland winter without trouble in the soil. After the first frost, you can cut the foliage back close to the ground, or leave it standing as natural protection and remove it only in late winter/spring; in a container, wrap the pot in hessian or fleece and stand it on an insulating base, since the roots chill more there.
Propagation
Methods
- Division
- Runners
- Offsets
The classic orange daylily (Hemerocallis fulva) is a triploid plant and forms no viable seed; sowing is not possible for this species.
Division (preferred method): divide established clumps every 3 to 5 years in early spring as growth starts, or alternatively in early autumn (at least 4 weeks before the first frost). Dig out the whole clump with a spade, separate the fans with a sharp spade or knife into sections each with several leaf fans and strong roots, and replant them immediately; make sure to leave enough space of about 60 to 70 cm. The new plants usually flower as early as the following year.
Runners (stolons): H. fulva spreads naturally via underground stolons that root new shoots at the nodes. You can separate already rooted daughter plants at the edge of the clump and move them; this works best in spring or early summer. This method is particularly gentle on the parent plant.
Proliferations (plantlets on the flower stem): after flowering, small plantlets sometimes form directly on the stem. Let them grow until they show their own root beginnings (about 2 to 3 cm), cut the stem above and below the plantlet and insert the proliferation in moist propagation medium or a glass of water (water level only up to the base of the crown, otherwise there is a risk of rot) until it is well rooted. This method works particularly well in damp weather.
Companion planting
Good neighbors
Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.
For your garden
Grow Daylily yourself
Gartenkern tells you when frost is coming, when to sow and when to harvest, for your location.
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Where to get this plant
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