Physalis philadelphica
Tomatillo
Common names: Mexican tomato
At a glance
- Light
- Full sun
- Spacing
- 70 cm, rows 90 cm
- Lifespan
- Annual
- Sowing
- Mar–Apr
- Harvest
- Aug–Oct
- Hardiness
- Cold damage below 2 °C
- Water need
- Medium
Photo: Frank Vincentz · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Source
This description was machine-translated.
Description
The tomatillo is the base of green Mexican salsa verde, a green, herbaceous-tart fruit that matures inside a papery lantern-like husk. Unlike its relative the Andean berry, it is cooked rather than eaten raw. The plants are self‑sterile, so you should always plant at least two together so they can cross‑pollinate and set fruit.
Care instructions
Start seedlings indoors in March, treating them like tomatoes. Transplant outside after the last frost (mid‑May, week 20) in pairs to a sunny spot with support. Water evenly at the root zone and give the sprawling plant ample space. Harvest when the husk is full and just beginning to split, then the fruit is ripe and aromatic.
The care notes were machine-translated from German.
Garden year
SowingMar–Apr
HarvestAug–Oct
Germination
- Soil temperature
- from 16 °C, ideally 24 °C
- Days to sprout
- 7 to 14 days
- Light
- Sprouts in light or dark
- Sowing depth
- 0.5 cm
- How to start
- Start indoors, then plant out
Soil & site
Soil pH
Soil type
humus-rich, well-drained, nutrient-rich, loamy
Give the tomatillo a loose, humus-rich and free-draining soil in full sun; loamy-sandy, nutrient-rich soil suits it well as long as the drainage is right. Avoid waterlogging at all costs, because it is the most common growing mistake and encourages root rot.
Nightshades (tomato, potato, pepper) are heavy feeders and prone to disease; a break of at least 4 years on the same bed prevents soil fatigue and blight.
Feeding
Medium feeder
Months
Apr–Aug
In spring before planting out, work mature compost and horn shavings shallowly into the bed; this gives the young plants an organic boost to start. Over the season (May to August) moderate feeding is enough, for example with diluted nettle feed; go easy on nitrogen, otherwise a lot of foliage grows at the expense of fruit.
Overwintering
The tomatillo is not hardy and is killed by the first frost. In the lowlands of Central Europe the easiest way is to grow it as an annual: compost the plant after harvest and start new plants indoors from February/March the next spring, planting out after the Ice Saints (mid-May). If you want to keep a plant, bring it in as a container plant before the first frost and overwinter it bright and cool (about 10 to 15 °C) with sparing watering; from March you gradually accustom it to light and warmth again.
Propagation
Methods
- From seed
- Cuttings
The easiest way to propagate tomatillos is by sowing: from mid-February to mid-March, sow the seeds in seed compost at 20 to 27 °C on the windowsill. Soak the seeds for a day in room-temperature water to break the natural germination inhibition and shorten germination time to 5 to 7 days. Push the seeds about 0.5 cm deep into the soil, put them in a bright spot, keep the soil evenly moist and thin the seedlings as soon as they are about 5 cm tall. From mid-May, after the Ice Saints, you can set the hardened-off young plants out in the open ground. Important: always plant at least two plants side by side, because tomatillos are self-sterile and depend on cross-pollination. For seed saving, let a few fruits ripen fully, squeeze out the seeds, let them ferment in water for 2 to 3 days and then dry the seeds that have sunk carefully. Cuttings are suitable as a second method, especially if you want to clone a proven plant or extend the season. Tomatillos behave here like their close relatives, tomatoes: in late summer, cut strong shoots 10 to 15 cm long, remove the lower leaves and put the cuttings in a glass of water so that only the cut surface is submerged and no leaves reach into the water. Put the glass somewhere warm and bright, but not in blazing sun, and change the water every few days. After about two weeks roots form; then pot the cuttings up in seed compost. Alternatively, the shoots also root directly in moist, free-draining seed compost, where they often form stronger roots. This way you can overwinter strong plants and harvest earlier the next year.
Companion planting
Good neighbors
mint family (Lamiaceae)
particularly well establishedYou will find that basil next to tomato and pepper improves taste and keeps whiteflies and aphids away.
For example LavenderThymeRosemarySageHyssopBee balm and 42 more species in the catalogue
Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)
borage family (Boraginaceae)
Borage attracts pollinators and is supposed to keep tomato pests away from the nightshade family.
For example BorageCommon comfreyLacy phaceliaForget-me-notLungwortSiberian bugloss and 2 more species in the catalogue
Source: organic greenhouse companion planting practice
Rather not
gourd family (Cucurbitaceae)
You should avoid planting potato and cucumber together because they share disease pathogens such as leaf and brown rot and stand in each other's way as strong feeders.
For example CucumberPumpkinCourgettePickling cucumberButternutHokkaido and 15 more species in the catalogue
Source: basic crop-rotation rule
Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.
Some of these explanations were machine-translated.
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