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Physalis pruinosa

Pineapple cherry

Common names: Earth cherry, Strawberry tomato

At a glance

Light
Full sun
Hardiness
Cold damage below 0 °C
Harvest
Aug–Oct
Spacing
50 cm, rows 70 cm
Water need
Medium
Pineapple cherry

Photo: Frank Vincentz · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Source

This description was machine-translated.

Description

The pineapple cherry is a low-growing, spreading relative of the Andean berry. Its golden‑yellow fruits ripen inside delicate lantern‑shaped husks and taste sweetly of pineapple and strawberry. It is shorter and more compact than the taller tomatillo relatives, making it ideal for beds or pots.

Care instructions

Sow seeds in March in a warm, protected spot and transplant seedlings after the last frost in mid‑May to a sunny, warm location. Water evenly and fertilize moderately, excess nitrogen will inhibit fruiting. The ripe fruits fall from their husks in August; pick them regularly and allow them to ripen a few days longer on the plant.

The care notes were machine-translated from German.

Garden year

SowingMar–Apr

HarvestAug–Oct

Germination

Soil temperature
from 15 °C, ideally 24 °C
Days to sprout
10 to 21 days
Light
Needs light to sprout
Sowing depth
0.5 cm
How to start
Start indoors, then plant out

Soil & site

Soil pH

4.0pH 6–78.0

Soil type

humus-rich, well-drained, loamy, sandy

LightFull sun
Hours of sunat least 6 h a day
HardinessFrost-sensitive
Water needMedium

Plant the ground cherry in loose, humus-rich, well-drained soil. Waterlogging quickly leads to root rot, so make sure of drainage. Loosen heavy loam soils before planting with mature compost and a little sand. It does not shun lime, but is not a lime lover either: a slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 6.0 to 7.0) is ideal.

Feeding

Medium feeder

Months

Apr–Jun

In spring before planting out (from mid-May after the Ice Saints), work mature compost shallowly into the soil and put horn shavings in the planting hole when planting. In a well-prepared outdoor bed this is often enough for the whole season. On lean soil you can help along at the beginning of June with some compost on top. Go easy on nitrogen: too much encourages lush foliage at the expense of the fruit.

Overwintering

The ground cherry is frost-tender and is grown as an annual here in Central Europe: sow on the windowsill from February/March and put the young plants outside only after the Ice Saints (mid-May). If you leave ripe fruits lying, it often self-seeds; alternatively, you can pot up a plant before the first frost and overwinter it bright and cool.

Propagation

Methods

  • From seed
  • Cuttings

The ground cherry (Physalis pruinosa) is propagated almost exclusively by sowing in Central European home gardens. This is the simplest and most reliable method. Sow the roundish, light brown seeds from mid-February to the end of March on moist, low-nutrient seed compost. The seeds are light germinators: cover them only with a whisper of compost or leave them completely open. At 20 to 25 °C on the windowsill or in the greenhouse they germinate after 7 to 14 days. As soon as two true pairs of leaves are visible, prick out the seedlings into individual pots. From mid-May, after the Ice Saints, you can put the young plants outside. Remember: the ground cherry often self-seeds in the garden. Look for self-sown seedlings next spring before you sow completely anew.

Cuttings are possible and especially practical if you want to clone a particularly productive plant. The most reliable time is in the middle of the season: cut soft, not yet woody shoot pieces from the middle section of the stems (not from the base and not the shoot tip), remove the lower leaves and put the cuttings in an airy, free-draining substrate or in water. Keep them warm and evenly moist, and they root quickly. You can also save a plant over winter: cut it back hard in autumn before the first frost and overwinter it bright at 10 to 15 °C. Be aware, though, that overwintering does not automatically lead to an earlier or richer harvest, and the plants are prone to diseases in winter. In most cases the annual cultivation from fresh sowing is the easier choice.

Companion planting

Good neighbors

mint family (Lamiaceae)

particularly well established

You will find that basil next to tomato and pepper improves taste and keeps whiteflies and aphids away.

For example LavenderThymeBasilRosemarySageHyssop and 43 more species in the catalogue

Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)

borage family (Boraginaceae)

Borage attracts pollinators and is supposed to keep tomato pests away from the nightshade family.

For example BorageCommon comfreyLacy phaceliaForget-me-notLungwortSiberian bugloss and 2 more species in the catalogue

Source: organic greenhouse companion planting practice

Rather not

gourd family (Cucurbitaceae)

You should avoid planting potato and cucumber together because they share disease pathogens such as leaf and brown rot and stand in each other's way as strong feeders.

For example CucumberPumpkinCourgettePickling cucumberButternutHokkaido and 15 more species in the catalogue

Source: basic crop-rotation rule

Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.

Some of these explanations were machine-translated.

For your garden

Grow Pineapple cherry yourself

Gartenkern tells you when frost is coming, when to sow and when to harvest, for your location.

Notes from real gardens

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