Capsicum annuum var. longum
Pointed pepper
Common names: Long chili, Peperoni pepper
At a glance
- Light
- Full sun
- Spacing
- 40 cm, rows 50 cm
- Lifespan
- Annual
- Sowing
- Feb–Mar
- Harvest
- Jul–Oct
- Hardiness
- Cold damage below 5 °C
- Water need
- Medium
Photo: Franz Eugen Köhler, Köhler's Medizinal-Pflanzen · Public Domain · Source
Description
The pointed pepper is a long, mild to moderately hot chili suitable for salads, antipasti, and pickling. It is lighter and faster to grow than the fiery Chinese chilies and can also be cultivated outdoors in a warm spot. When harvested green it tastes fresh; when fully ripened to red it becomes sweeter and fuller.
Care instructions
Sow from February to March in a warm place and transplant seedlings after the last frost (mid‑May, week 20) to a sunny, sheltered location. Water evenly at the root and support the stems once they become heavy with fruit. Harvest regularly, each picked pod stimulates new flowers, and the plant will continue to produce until the first frost.
The care notes were machine-translated from German.
Garden year
SowingFeb–Mar
HarvestJul–Oct
Germination
- Soil temperature
- from 15 °C, ideally 28 °C
- Days to sprout
- 10 to 21 days
- Light
- Sprouts in light or dark
- Sowing depth
- 0.5 cm
- How to start
- Start indoors, then plant out
Soil & site
Soil pH
Soil type
humus-rich, well-drained, nutrient-rich, loamy
Chilli peppers need loose, deeply worked, humus-rich soil with good water retention, but without waterlogging. Improve heavy or sandy soils with mature compost before planting. Give them a warm, wind-sheltered spot, gladly against a sunny south wall; this noticeably increases the fruit yield.
Nightshades (tomato, potato, pepper) are heavy feeders and prone to disease; a break of at least 4 years on the same bed prevents soil fatigue and blight.
Feeding
Heavy feeder
Months
Apr–Aug
Before planting out (April/May), work mature compost shallowly into the bed. This lays the nutrient foundation for the whole season. When setting out the young plants, add a little horn shavings to the planting hole for slowly released nitrogen. From June, supply the plants regularly with diluted nettle or comfrey liquid feed to meet the rising demand. With flowering (July/August) you can continue feeding with compost tea or herb liquid feed; as soon as the first fruits develop noticeably, stop feeding so ripening is not delayed.
Overwintering
Chilli peppers are not hardy and die in frost. You either raise them anew from seed every year or overwinter established container plants frost-free. To do so, repot them in late summer before nights fall permanently below 10 °C, cut the shoots back markedly, remove fruit and leaves and put them somewhere bright and frost-free at around 10 °C; water only sparingly, do not feed, and from February put them somewhere warmer and brighter again.
Propagation
Methods
- From seed
- Cuttings
Sowing (main method): Sow chilli peppers indoors on the windowsill from mid-January to the end of February; the long growing season (around 5 months to harvest) makes the early start necessary. Use loose seed compost in shallow trays or peat pellets and cover the seeds only thinly with about 0.5 to 1 cm of soil. For germination you need even warmth: 22 to 28 °C is ideal; a spot above the radiator or a heat mat under the seed container helps. Keep the soil evenly moist, but not wet. The first seedlings show after about 10 to 20 days. As soon as the tips show, the early-sown seedlings need plenty of light (a bright south-window spot or plant light), otherwise they become leggy. As soon as the first true pair of leaves is visible, prick the young plants out into 10 to 15 cm pots. After the Ice Saints (from mid-May), when no more night frosts threaten, you can put the hardened-off plants outdoors, in the greenhouse or on the balcony. Chilli peppers are frost-sensitive and like it warm and sunny.
Cuttings (for reusing a variety true to type, somewhat more demanding): If you want to secure a proven or rare variety, in early summer you can cut a healthy side shoot about 10 cm long with four to five leaves. Remove the lower leaves and place the cutting in moist seed compost or a glass of water somewhere warm and bright. Rooting usually shows after two to four weeks, but does not always work reliably, which is why sowing remains the safer choice in the home garden. Alternatively, overwinter the whole mother plant bright and cool at 10 to 15 °C, water sparingly, cut it back hard in spring and bring it back to the windowsill in March; this way it sprouts again for the new season and supplies fresh cuttings if needed.
Companion planting
Good neighbors
mint family (Lamiaceae)
particularly well establishedYou will find that basil next to tomato and pepper improves taste and keeps whiteflies and aphids away.
For example LavenderThymeRosemarySageHyssopBee balm and 42 more species in the catalogue
Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)
borage family (Boraginaceae)
Borage attracts pollinators and is supposed to keep tomato pests away from the nightshade family.
For example BorageCommon comfreyLacy phaceliaForget-me-notLungwortSiberian bugloss and 2 more species in the catalogue
Source: organic greenhouse companion planting practice
Rather not
gourd family (Cucurbitaceae)
You should avoid planting potato and cucumber together because they share disease pathogens such as leaf and brown rot and stand in each other's way as strong feeders.
For example CucumberPumpkinCourgettePickling cucumberButternutHokkaido and 15 more species in the catalogue
Source: basic crop-rotation rule
Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.
Some of these explanations were machine-translated.
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