Daucus carota subsp. sativus
Carrot
Description
The carrot is a rewarding root vegetable for deep, loose soils and succeeds even for beginners. It grows especially well next to onions and garlic, whose smell keeps the carrot fly away.
Care instructions
Sow thinly into loose, stone-free soil and keep the ground evenly moist until the seedlings emerge. Thin the seedlings to about a finger's width so the roots have room, and draw a little soil over exposed shoulders.
Soil & site
Soil pH
Soil type
sandy, loamy, humus-rich, well-drained
Feeding
Medium feeder
Companion planting
Good neighbors
amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae)
Umbellifers and alliums confuse each other's pests (carrot fly, onion fly).
For example DaffodilSnowdropornamental garlicAgapanthus lilyWild garlic
Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)
daisy family (Asteraceae)
Calendula and Tagetes next to carrots keep the carrot fly away with their scent.
For example Tagetes patulaCalendulaSunflowerCommon coneflowerFall AsterMarguerite and 44 more species in the catalogue
Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)
cabbage family (Brassicaceae)
You can pair celery and dill with all Brassicaceae because they repel the cabbage whitefly with their scent, a proven companion.
For example White cabbageKohlrabiKalebroccolicauliflowerbeet greens and 30 more species in the catalogue
Source: Bio-Gärtnerei Mixed-culture Practice
legume family (Fabaceae)
Peas and beans provide carrot and celery with nitrogen and grow as shallow-rooted plants without competition next to each other.
For example Pole beanRed beanLima beanSoybeanWhite Cloverlentil and 22 more species in the catalogue
Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)
Show 41 more plants
Rather not
Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.
Some of these explanations were machine-translated.
Diseases & pests
4 relevantFrom the knowledge base, automatically linked by affected species. How to spot and prevent them is covered in full in the lexicon.
Agriotes spp.
Wireworms are the yellow-brown, hard larvae of click beetles and live several years in the soil.
More on WirewormPsila rosae
The carrot fly lays its eggs at the root collar of umbellifers, and the maggots eat rust brown tunnels just under the skin of the root.
More on Carrot flyAlternaria dauci
Carrot leaf blight is caused by the fungus Alternaria dauci and is one of the most common leaf diseases on carrots and related umbellifers.
More on Carrot leaf blight (Alternaria)Sclerotinia sclerotiorum
White mould, also called Sclerotinia rot, is a fungal disease with a broad host range that attacks lettuce, beans and many other crops.
More on White mould (Sclerotinia rot)Varieties
7 varieties‚Flyaway F1’
*‚Flyaway F1’* is a modern hybrid bred for its high tolerance against the carrot fly, whose larvae are otherwise the most common cause of bored roots.
‚Gelbe Lange Stumpfe ohne Herz’
The *‚Gelbe Lange Stumpfe ohne Herz’* is an old yellow‑fleshed land variety that was mainly grown as feed and soup…
‚Nantaise 2’
The proven classic among summer carrots, almost cylindrical with a blunt end and a barely noticeable core.
‚Oxhella’
A short, blunt carrot of the Chantenay type with a strong shoulder that does well even on heavy, stony and shallow soils.
‚Pariser Markt’
An old French round carrot whose round roots, almost the size of a golf ball, are ready to harvest after just a few weeks.
‚Purple Haze F1’
A spectacular hybrid carrot with deep purple skin and an orange core; sliced open it shows a glowing ring of colour that lifts any plate of raw vegetables.
‚Rodelika’
A biodynamically bred storage carrot with an exceptionally strong, full bodied aroma; many consider it the most flavourful carrot there is.
Notes from real gardens
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From the magazine
Sowing carrots without carrot fly: net, soil and the companion-planting myth
Maggoty roots and crooked carrots need not happen. Why only the net reliably keeps out the carrot fly, what companion planting really does, and how carrots grow straight.
Storing food the old way: earth clamp, sand box, cool cellar
Fifteen kilos of carrots and one salad drawer in the fridge: how to build an earth clamp, what belongs in the sand box, and why the old natural cellar keeps root vegetables plump until March.
Companion planting the old way: what holds up about the classic bed partnerships
Carrot and onion, tomato and basil, the Three Sisters: what generations observed in the bed, how much of it is actually documented, and which neighbours you really do need to keep apart.
Keeping old vegetable varieties and farm seed alive
Open-pollinated instead of F1: why seed saved from a hybrid falls apart, how to get clean seed from tomato, bean, squash, cabbage and carrot, how many plants a variety really needs, and what seed law actually allows.
Storing potatoes and root vegetables: cold, dark, kept apart
Why potatoes and apples never belong in the same room, why the cellar should sit neither below 4 nor above 10 degrees, and how carrots and beetroot stay crisp in damp sand right into spring. With wound healing, the solanine rules, rot diagnosis and the weekly check.
Storing the harvest: a storage map by temperature and humidity
Sort every crop by two numbers, temperature and humidity, and find the right spot for carrots, potatoes and apples in the cellar, sand box or earth clamp.