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Solanum lycopersicum var. cerasiforme

Cocktail tomato

Common names: Cherry tomato, Cherrytomate

At a glance

Light
Full sun
Spacing
50 cm, rows 70 cm
Lifespan
Annual
Sowing
Mar–Apr
Harvest
Jul–Oct
Hardiness
Cold damage below 5 °C
Water need
High
For children
Well suited
Cocktail tomato

This description was machine-translated.

Description

The cocktail tomato bears countless small, especially sweet fruits and is the ideal snack and balcony tomato. It is more robust and productive than many larger varieties and ripens earlier. Popular varieties include the golden "Sungold" and the space‑saving "Resi" for pots.

Care instructions

Start them indoors in March on a windowsill and transplant after the last frost (mid May, week 20) to a warm, sheltered spot. Water in the morning at the roots, never over the leaves, and break off the suckers at the base. A mulch layer keeps the soil moist and prevents brown rot; harvest the fruits when fully ripe, then they taste sweetest.

The care notes were machine-translated from German.

Garden year

SowingMar–Apr

HarvestJul–Oct

Germination

Soil temperature
from 15 °C, ideally 24 °C
Days to sprout
6 to 14 days
Light
Sprouts in light or dark
Sowing depth
0.5 cm
How to start
Start indoors, then plant out

Soil & site

Soil pH

4.0pH 6–6.88.0

Soil type

loamy, humus-rich, well-drained, nutrient-rich

LightFull sun
Hours of sunat least 8 h a day
HardinessFrost-sensitive
Crop rotationNightshades
Water needHigh

Give the cherry tomato a deep, humus-rich, well-drained soil, ideally sandy loam; it does not tolerate waterlogging. Work mature compost in shallowly before planting and mulch afterwards; this holds moisture and protects against splashing water (important against late blight and brown rot).

Nightshades (tomato, potato, pepper) are heavy feeders and prone to disease. A break of at least 4 years on the same bed guards against soil fatigue and blight.

Feeding

Heavy feeder

Months

Apr–Aug

In early spring, work mature compost shallowly into the topsoil and add a second dose of compost shortly before planting out in May. Apply horn shavings in two part doses: the first at planting, the second a few weeks later, raked in at the surface. From fruit set in high summer, you can also support supply in the cropping phase with nettle feed or sheep's wool pellets.

Overwintering

Cherry tomatoes are not hardy and die in frost. The simplest approach is to grow them as annuals and sow again in spring. If you want to save a plant, bring it indoors before the first night frosts (below 10 °C), cut it back by about half and keep it bright, cool and frost-free (around 10 to 15 °C); water only sparingly and do not feed.

Propagation

Methods

  • From seed
  • Cuttings

Sowing (main method): Sow cherry tomatoes indoors from the end of February to the end of March. Use loose, low-nutrient seed compost and keep it at 22 to 25 °C until the seeds germinate after 7 to 14 days. After germination, keep the seedlings bright and somewhat cooler. As soon as the first pair of true leaves appears, prick the young plants out into larger individual pots; plant them deep, and they will form additional roots along the stem. From mid-May, after the Ice Saints, you can plant them out in the open or in the greenhouse. Pay attention to the variety: only open-pollinated varieties give you plants that come true. Seed from F1 hybrids segregates in the next generation, so the daughter plants differ from the parent type.

Cuttings from side shoots (additional method): When removing side shoots from May into summer, you can use strong side shoots from 15 to 20 cm long as cuttings instead of throwing them away. Remove the lower leaves, cut the shoot at a slant at the bottom and stand it in a glass of fresh water in a bright, warm place. After about ten days roots are visible; then plant the cutting deep in seed compost, where the buried stem forms further roots. Note: cuttings made too late in the year often do not manage to ripen their fruit fully outdoors. Those started early in summer are the most worthwhile.

Companion planting

Good neighbors

mint family (Lamiaceae)

particularly well established

You will find that basil next to tomato and pepper improves taste and keeps whiteflies and aphids away.

For example LavenderThymeRosemarySageHyssopBee balm and 42 more species in the catalogue

Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)

borage family (Boraginaceae)

Borage attracts pollinators and is supposed to keep tomato pests away from the nightshade family.

For example BorageCommon comfreyLacy phaceliaForget-me-notLungwortSiberian bugloss and 2 more species in the catalogue

Source: organic greenhouse companion planting practice

Rather not

gourd family (Cucurbitaceae)

You should avoid planting potato and cucumber together because they share disease pathogens such as leaf and brown rot and stand in each other's way as strong feeders.

For example PumpkinCourgettePickling cucumberButternutHokkaidoPatisson and 14 more species in the catalogue

Source: basic crop-rotation rule

Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.

Some of these explanations were machine-translated.

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For your garden

Grow Cocktail tomato yourself

Gartenkern tells you when frost is coming, when to sow and when to harvest, for your location.

Varieties

6 varieties
View all 6 varieties

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