Armoracia rusticana
horseradish
At a glance
- Light
- Full sun
- Spacing
- 40 cm, rows 60 cm
- Lifespan
- Perennial
- Planting
- Mar–Apr
- Harvest
- Jan, Feb, Oct, Nov, Dec
- Hardiness
- Hardy down to −20 °C
- Water need
- Medium
Photo: Pethan · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Source
This description was machine-translated.
Description
Horseradish is a hardy perennial with a strong taproot that releases sharp mustard oils when grated. It spreads aggressively through root fragments, so it is best kept in a defined area.
Care instructions
Plant root cuttings (called "fechser" or side shoots) at an angle in deep, loose soil in spring and give the plant plenty of space. Harvest the roots after the first frost in October when they are most pungent. When digging, leave some root pieces in the ground if you wish to maintain the stock; otherwise dig thoroughly, as each root piece will sprout anew.
The care notes were machine-translated from German.
Garden year
PlantingMar–Apr
HarvestJan–Feb, Oct–Dec
Soil & site
Soil pH
Soil type
loamy, humus-rich, well-drained, nutrient-rich
Horseradish needs a deep, loose and humus-rich soil, ideally sandy loam. Loosen it 40 to 50 cm deep so that the roots grow straight and unhindered downwards. It does not tolerate waterlogging: the soil should be evenly moist but well drained. Loosen heavy clay soils with coarse sand and ripe compost before planting. A pH of about 6.0 to 7.5 (slightly acidic to neutral) suits it well.
Brassicas are heavy feeders and susceptible to clubroot. Keep a 4-year break and do not follow directly after other brassicas such as radishes or mustard.
Feeding
Heavy feeder
Months
Mar, Apr, Jun, Jul
In spring before planting, work ripe compost or well-rotted farmyard manure shallowly into the soil; this improves the soil structure and supplies it in the long term. Horn shavings additionally provide slow nitrogen release. In the main growing season in early summer, top up with a little compost if needed. Be moderate with nitrogen: too much drives the foliage at the expense of the root, and the root is exactly what you want with horseradish.
Overwintering
Horseradish is fully hardy and stays in the ground without protection. The foliage dies back in autumn, and the root reliably shoots again in spring. Thongs (side roots) for propagation you heel into moist sand and store cool and frost-free in the cellar; a container you place sheltered against the house wall and wrap against freezing through.
Propagation
Methods
- Cuttings
- Division
The most reliable way to propagate horseradish is by root cuttings, known as thongs. When harvesting in autumn or in spring (March to April), cut pencil-thick side roots from the main root. Ideal are 20 to 30 cm long and about 1 to 2 cm thick. Cut the top end straight and the bottom end at an angle, so you do not mix up the planting direction. After an autumn harvest, store the thongs lying in moist sand, cool and dark, over winter. In spring (early April to early May) you insert them at an angle (about 45°) into a well-loosened, deep bed: the top (straight) end goes just below the soil surface (about 5 cm deep), the slanted end points down (about 15 cm deep). Planting distance at least 50 cm, correspondingly generous in rows. The slanted position lets the taproot develop better thickness. If the thong lies too horizontally, the root stays thin; if it stands too vertically, the energy goes mainly into the foliage. Alternatively, you can propagate an old plant in spring or autumn by dividing the root crown: dig up the clump, divide it so that each piece has its own roots and at least one shoot base (leaf crown), and replant the pieces immediately.
Companion planting
Good neighbors
legume family (Fabaceae)
particularly well establishedLeguminous plants collect nitrogen in the soil, from which Brassicaceae benefit as heavy feeders.
For example PeaBush beanPole beanBroad beanSnow peaWrinkled pea and 36 more species in the catalogue
Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)
carrot family (Apiaceae)
You can pair celery and dill with all Brassicaceae because they repel the cabbage whitefly with their scent, a proven companion.
For example CarrotCeleriacDillParsleyFlorence fennelCoriander and 21 more species in the catalogue
Source: Bio-Gärtnerei Mixed-culture Practice
mint family (Lamiaceae)
You will notice that the intense scent of basil, thyme, and others confuses the cabbage whitefly and keeps it away from the cabbage family.
For example LavenderThymeBasilRosemarySageHyssop and 43 more species in the catalogue
Source: bio-gardening intercropping practice
nasturtium family (Tropaeolaceae)
Nasturtium serves as a trap plant for you. Aphids and cabbage whiteflies prefer it over the brassicaceae next to it.
For example NasturtiumMashua
Source: Trap plant practice in organic horticulture
Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.
Some of these explanations were machine-translated.
For your garden
Grow horseradish yourself
Gartenkern tells you when frost is coming, when to sow and when to harvest, for your location.
Free, no time limit
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