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Pisum sativum var. saccharatum

Snow pea

Common names: Sugar pea, Mangetout

At a glance

Light
Full sun
Spacing
5 cm, rows 40 cm
Lifespan
Annual
Sowing
Mar–May
Harvest
Jun–Jul
Hardiness
Cold damage below −4 °C
Water need
Medium
For children
Well suited
Snow pea

Photo: JS · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Source

Description

The sugar pea is a tender, sweet pod that is eaten whole, including the tiny seeds inside. Unlike other peas, it has no papery inner lining. Fresh from the plant, the pods are wonderfully sweet and crisp, so they are rarely used in cooking. As a butterfly flower, it also improves the soil by fixing nitrogen.

Care instructions

Sow from March to May directly into the garden in a shallow furrow about 4 cm deep and set up a trellis or netting early for climbing. Keep the soil evenly moist, especially after flowering. Harvest the pods young and continuously while the seeds are still just indicated, this keeps the plant productive.

The care notes were machine-translated from German.

Garden year

SowingMar–May

HarvestJun–Jul

Germination

Soil temperature
from 5 °C, ideally 15 °C
Days to sprout
7 to 14 days
Light
Sprouts in light or dark
Sowing depth
3 cm
How to start
Sow straight into the bed

Soil & site

Soil pH

4.0pH 6–7.58.0

Soil type

loamy, humus-rich, well-drained, nutrient-rich

LightFull sun
Hours of sunat least 6 h a day
HardinessFrost-sensitive
Crop rotationLegumes
Water needMedium

Give the mangetout a loose, deep, humus-rich soil with good drainage; medium-heavy loam is ideal, and it dislikes very sandy or heavy, compacted soils. It does not tolerate waterlogging at all: keep the soil evenly moist but never wet, and before sowing work ripe compost and a little sand into heavy soils. A neutral pH of 6.0 or above is important, otherwise the symbiosis with the nodule bacteria does not work.

Legumes collect nitrogen via nodule bacteria and are an ideal preceding crop for heavy feeders; they themselves need about 4 years' break in the same place.

Feeding

Light feeder

Months

Feb–Mar

As a legume, the mangetout supplies itself with nitrogen from the air via nodule bacteria. So do not give it extra nitrogen, as that only promotes foliage at the expense of pods. In autumn or early spring, work in only a little ripe compost shallowly; this improves the soil structure and the supply of phosphorus and potassium. Avoid fresh manure. On strongly acidic soil, lime lightly beforehand so that the symbiosis with the nodule bacteria works.

Overwintering

The mangetout is annual: after harvest and seed ripening it dies off completely in autumn, and you need not store or dig up anything. Simply sow anew in spring (from March). Only special winter pea varieties such as ‘Frieda Welten’ you overwinter as young plants after an October sowing, and cover them with horticultural fleece or brushwood in severe frost without snow cover.

Propagation

Methods

  • From seed

You propagate mangetout exclusively by direct sowing outdoors. Vegetative methods such as cuttings or division are not possible with this annual plant. Sow the seeds from mid-March to early April, as soon as the soil has warmed to at least 5 °C (sown later, the plant gives a smaller yield): draw drills 3 to 5 cm deep, lay the seeds every 5 cm and keep a distance of about 35 cm between the rows. Fill in the drills and press down lightly. Germination takes one to two weeks depending on the weather (about 10 to 14 days). Tall varieties need a climbing support of sticks or strings once they reach a height of about 20 cm. If you want to save your own seed for next year, at the end of the season leave some of the best pods on the plant to ripen fully and turn brown and dry before you take them off. Peas are strict self-pollinators, fertilisation already takes place at the bud stage, so crosses between varieties hardly occur; a safety distance of about 30 m from other pea varieties applies, as bumblebees occasionally visit the flowers. Make sure to propagate only open-pollinated varieties, because F1 hybrids do not come true. Dry the shelled seeds for another two to three weeks in an airy, warm but shaded place and store them cool, dark and dry; the seed stays viable for around three years that way and declines clearly afterwards.

Companion planting

Good neighbors

cabbage family (Brassicaceae)

particularly well established

Leguminous plants collect nitrogen in the soil, from which Brassicaceae benefit as heavy feeders.

For example White cabbageKalebroccolicauliflowerBrussels sproutPalm kale and 39 more species in the catalogue

Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)

carrot family (Apiaceae)

Peas and beans provide carrot and celery with nitrogen and grow as shallow-rooted plants without competition next to each other.

For example CeleriacDillParsleyFlorence fennelCorianderCelery (Stalk Celery) and 20 more species in the catalogue

Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)

gourd family (Cucurbitaceae)

Beans and peas enrich the soil with nitrogen, which cucurbits, as heavy feeders, can make good use of.

For example PumpkinPickling cucumberButternutHokkaidoPatissonSpaghetti squash and 13 more species in the catalogue

Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)

Rather not

amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae)

particularly well established

Allium species inhibit the nitrogen‑fixing rhizobia of legumes through their root exudates, which slows their growth.

For example ChivesWild daffodilRocamboleElephant garlicRed OnionShallot and 9 more species in the catalogue

Source: basic crop‑rotation rule

Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.

Some of these explanations were machine-translated.

For your garden

Grow Snow pea yourself

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