Prunus persica
Peach
Common names: Peach tree
At a glance
- Light
- Full sun
- Hardiness
- Hardy down to −20 °C
- Pruning
- Feb–Mar
- Harvest
- Jul–Sep
- Spacing
- 350 cm, rows 400 cm
- Water need
- Medium
Photo: Jack Dykinga, USDA · Public Domain · Source
Description
The peach supplies sun-ripened, juicy fruits straight from your own tree and is usually self-fertile. It needs a warm, sheltered spot, for instance against a south wall. Robust cultivars such as ‘Roter Weinbergpfirsich’ cope with our climate better than delicate dessert cultivars.
Care instructions
Plant it in the warmest place in the garden and protect the early flowers (March, week 12) with fleece during late frosts. Prune directly after flowering, not in winter; that prevents the dreaded peach leaf curl. Water thoroughly in dry summers so the fruits turn full and juicy.
The care notes were machine-translated from German.
Garden year
HarvestJul–Sep
Soil & site
Soil pH
Soil type
loamy, sandy, humus-rich, well-drained, lime-avoiding
Peach needs deep, free-draining, loamy, humus-rich soil. Waterlogging quickly damages the roots; loosen heavy, wet soils with sand and mature compost. The soil may be neutral to slightly acidic (about pH 6.0 to 7.0); only strongly chalky, alkaline soils above pH 7.5 trigger iron-deficiency chlorosis. It thrives best against a warm, wind-sheltered south-facing wall with heat-storing masonry.
Feeding
Heavy feeder
Months
Mar–Jun
In spring, spread mature compost evenly under the drip line of the crown and work it in shallowly across the tree circle together with horn shavings. This supplies the tree through the season with slowly available nitrogen. A second, lighter helping of compost can follow in May when growth picks up. From July, do not feed nitrogen-heavy any more, otherwise the new shoots do not ripen and are cut back by frost in winter. Do not feed yet in the first year after planting.
Pruning
Prune the peach at flowering time (February to March, weeks 8–12), because it fruits almost only on one-year-old wood and only now can you reliably recognise the true fruiting shoots with the triple buds (a leaf bud between two flower buds). Leave these shoots standing and shorten them if needed; thin out the rest.
Overwintering
Plant hardy varieties (e.g. ‘Pilot’, ‘Amsden’, vineyard peach) in a wind-sheltered, sunny spot, ideally trained as an espalier against a south- or west-facing wall; mulch the root zone of young trees thickly with leaves or brushwood in the first winters and wrap the trunk with hessian or horticultural fleece. The greatest danger is late frost on the early-appearing blossom. When frost is forecast, hang horticultural fleece loosely over the flowering tree overnight; container peaches go in a bright, cool, frost-free place during severe, lasting frost.
Propagation
Methods
- Grafting
- Cuttings
- From seed
Grafting (recommended for cultivars): The most reliable method for peaches true to type is grafting onto a rootstock, usually plum or peach seedlings; almond or apricot are also compatible. Use chip or T-budding: on plum rootstock the good window is in July, on peach or almond seedlings rather in August to early September, when the bark lifts easily. Cut the scion from a healthy shoot of this year, set the bud cleanly into the rootstock and fix the spot with grafting tape. The bud sprouts in spring of the following year. Grafted trees benefit from the hardier rootstock.
Cuttings (possible, but demanding): Hardwood cuttings, which you take in winter from one-year-old shoots, root most reliably. In summer you can also take semi-ripe shoots of 10 to 15 cm, but then you need a very evenly moist, airy environment. Make the cut at a slant, remove flower buds and insert the cutting in moist seed compost in a warm, bright place at around 20 to 25 °C. Do not feed before roots form. Rooting is generally uncertain with peach and takes several weeks; the resulting tree is on its own roots and therefore more frost-tender without the protective rootstock.
Sowing from the stone (only for varieties that come true from stone): After the autumn harvest, store the stone over winter in damp sand in a cool, dark place (stratification, not in the freezer) and sow it in February/March. Commercial varieties do not come true from stone; they segregate. Only a few old local varieties such as the Vorgebirgspfirsich are suitable for coming true. Seedlings can later serve as rootstock for grafting. It takes around 3 to 4 years until the first fruit.
Companion planting
Good neighbors
amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae)
You can plant garlic and chives under strawberries and roses; their scent repels aphids and other pests.
For example OnionLeekWild daffodilRocamboleElephant garlicRed Onion and 10 more species in the catalogue
Source: Bio-Gärtnerei Mixed Culture Practice
Rather not
Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.
Some of these explanations were machine-translated.
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Varieties
8 varieties‘Benedicte’
You will find ‚Benedicte’ a modern French breeding, especially interesting for your home garden because of its high…
‘Dixired’
The ‚Dixired’ is an early-ripening variety that brings the first peaches as early as mid to late July, ideal if you don't want to wait until late summer.
‘Fruteria’
The ‚Fruteria’ is a newer variety, specifically selected for sturdy home gardens and noted for good tolerance to the russet disease.
‘Kernechter vom Vorgebirge’
A robust old landrace from the Rhenish Vorgebirge that is considered true to seed: trees raised from the stone stay very close to the mother plant.
‘Red Haven’
The worldwide standard among peaches and a dependable start for your garden.
‘Revita’
A variety advertised as tolerant of peach leaf curl for home gardens, which shrugs off the troublesome curling of the foliage far better than the old classics.
‘Suncrest’
A classic Californian dessert peach, prized for its intense aroma.
‘Roter Weinbergpfirsich’
The traditional vineyard peach of the German wine growing regions, smaller and more tart than the supermarket varieties, but robust and vigorous in growth.
Notes from real gardens
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From the magazine
Frost Protection for Early-Blooming Fruit Trees: Practical, Not Panicked
Apricot, peach and almond bloom in March, when night frosts are still normal. Here is how to protect the blossom with the right spot, fleece and overhead irrigation, without the panic.
Peach leaf curl: why the timing is everything
In spring the peach leaves blister, curl and turn red: peach leaf curl. Why you can fight it only before leaf-out, how a rain roof protects the tree, and which varieties shrug off the attack better.
Recognising fruit tree diseases: scab, fire blight, brown rot and more
An identification helper for the five commonest fruit tree diseases: apple scab, fire blight, brown rot, pear rust and peach leaf curl. How to recognise each by its damage, why fire blight is notifiable, and how an airy crown and tree hygiene prevent most problems.
Pruning peach and nectarine: the firm cutback
Peach and nectarine bear only on the one-year-old shoot. Why you prune boldly, how the replacement spur works and when the best pruning time is.
Where to get this plant
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