Daucus carota subsp. sativus var. atrorubens
Red carrot
Common names: Purple carrot, Violet carrot
At a glance
- Light
- Full sun
- Spacing
- 5 cm, rows 25 cm
- Lifespan
- Biennial
- Sowing
- Mar–Jun
- Harvest
- Jul–Nov
- Hardiness
- Cold damage below −5 °C
- Water need
- Medium
- For children
- Well suited
Category imageThis description was machine-translated.
Description
The Red Carrot is an ancient, anthocyanin-rich carrot variety whose roots are deep violet on the outside and often contrastingly colored on the inside. In cultivation it behaves like the orange carrot but adds color to the plate, varieties such as 'Purple Haze' retain a dark rim even when cooked.
Care instructions
Sow from March to June in a thin, loose, stone-free soil and keep the soil evenly moist until germination. Space seedlings about a finger's width apart and interplant with onions or garlic, whose scent deters carrot flies. Harvest typically from July to November, depending on the variety.
The care notes were machine-translated from German.
Garden year
SowingMar–Jun
HarvestJul–Nov
Germination
- Soil temperature
- from 5 °C, ideally 18 °C
- Days to sprout
- 14 to 28 days
- Light
- Sprouts in light or dark
- Sowing depth
- 1 cm
- How to start
- Sow straight into the bed
Soil & site
Soil pH
Soil type
sandy, loamy, humus-rich, well-drained
Give the carrot a deep, loose, stone-free sandy or sandy-loam soil. On such soils the roots grow straight and do not fork. Freshly limed soil and fresh manure lead to forked roots, so avoid both before sowing.
Umbellifers (carrot, celery, parsnip) are moderate feeders. A 4-year break keeps carrot fly and soil fungi in check.
Feeding
Medium feeder
Months
Mar, Apr, Oct, Nov
In autumn or in spring before sowing, work well-rotted compost shallowly into the soil; as a moderate feeder, the carrot usually needs no more. On lower-nutrient soils you can also work in horn shavings shallowly in spring, so that the nitrogen is supplied slowly. Avoid fresh manure and a lot of nitrogen, otherwise you get plenty of foliage, branched roots and poor storage.
Overwintering
You have two options. If you harvest before the first hard frost, twist off the foliage and layer the unwashed roots in damp sand, cool, dark and frost-free in the cellar or in a clamp. If you want to leave them in the bed, cut the foliage off just above the ground, earth up the root crowns with soil and, before frost, cover the bed completely with a thick layer of leaves, straw or horticultural fleece. In severe continuous frost, it is better to harvest and store in good time, because roots frozen through spoil when they thaw.
Propagation
Methods
- From seed
You propagate the red carrot exclusively by sowing. Other methods are not practicable for this vegetable: the thickened storage root forms no shoots or side roots from which division, cuttings or offsets could be taken.
For growing, sow directly in the outdoor bed, because carrots do not tolerate transplanting (taproot). Sow from March under horticultural fleece or from April/May without cover in rows about 30 cm apart, only 1 to 2 cm deep. Germination takes two to three weeks; keep the bed evenly moist during this time. As soon as the seedlings are about 5 cm tall, thin to 5 to 8 cm spacing in the row.
For saving your own seed, use the biennial life cycle: choose only an open-pollinated variety. Saving seed from F1 hybrids is not worthwhile, because the offspring are not true to type (colour and shape split). In autumn, select particularly fine, healthy roots typical of the variety (ideally 10 to 30 of the same variety for good pollination) and discard any that wanted to bolt in the first year. Overwinter the roots unwashed in damp sand in a cool, frost-free place (0 to 5 °C) and plant them back in the bed in spring. In the second year the plant forms tall umbel flower heads; let them flower out completely and the seeds ripen fully. Since carrots are cross-pollinated and pollinated by insects, they cross easily with other carrot varieties and with the wild carrot (Daucus carota subsp. carota); both are the same species. So let only one variety flower at a time and keep a large distance from wild carrots (several hundred metres; for strict varietal purity 800 to 1000 m applies), or protect the plants under a fine-mesh fleece cage. Harvest the umbels in the early morning hours when they are brown and dry (usually August to October), and dry them further indoors. Store the seed cool and dry; carrot seeds stay viable for about 2 to 3 years.
Companion planting
Good neighbors
amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae)
Umbellifers and alliums confuse each other's pests (carrot fly, onion fly).
For example LeekChivesWild daffodilRocamboleElephant garlicRed Onion and 10 more species in the catalogue
Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)
daisy family (Asteraceae)
Calendula and Tagetes next to carrots keep the carrot fly away with their scent.
For example French marigoldCalendulaSunflowerButterhead lettuceCommon coneflowerIceberg lettuce and 72 more species in the catalogue
Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)
cabbage family (Brassicaceae)
You can pair celery and dill with all Brassicaceae because they repel the cabbage whitefly with their scent, a proven companion.
For example White cabbageKohlrabiKalebroccolicauliflowerBrussels sprout and 40 more species in the catalogue
Source: Bio-Gärtnerei Mixed-culture Practice
legume family (Fabaceae)
Peas and beans provide carrot and celery with nitrogen and grow as shallow-rooted plants without competition next to each other.
For example PeaBush beanPole beanBroad beanSnow peaWrinkled pea and 36 more species in the catalogue
Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)
Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.
Some of these explanations were machine-translated.
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