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Brassica oleracea var. italica

broccoli

Common names: asparagus cabbage, broccoli cabbage

At a glance

Light
Full sun
Spacing
45 cm, rows 50 cm
Lifespan
Biennial
Sowing
Mar–Jun
Harvest
Jun–Oct
Hardiness
Cold damage below −4 °C
Water need
High
broccoli

This description was machine-translated.

Description

With broccoli you harvest the still closed, green flower buds together with the tender stalk. After cutting the main head, the plant vigorously produces smaller side rosettes, allowing you to harvest over many weeks, making it a particularly productive cabbage.

Care instructions

Plant pre‑grown seedlings from April with about an arm's length spacing into a nutrient‑rich, moist bed and keep the soil evenly moist. Harvest the main head while the buds are firmly closed and dark green; when yellow flowers appear, it is overripe; leave the plant to produce side shoots afterwards.

The care notes were machine-translated from German.

Garden year

SowingMar–Jun

HarvestJun–Oct

Germination

Soil temperature
from 5 °C, ideally 20 °C
Days to sprout
4 to 10 days
Light
Sprouts in light or dark
Sowing depth
1 cm
How to start
Start indoors, then plant out

Soil & site

Soil pH

4.0pH 6–7.58.0

Soil type

loamy, humus-rich, moist, nutrient-rich, lime-loving

LightFull sun
Hours of sunat least 6 h a day
HardinessFrost-sensitive
Crop rotationBrassicas
Water needHigh

Broccoli likes deep, humus-rich and evenly moist soils, ideally loamy-sandy mixed soils with good water retention; it does not tolerate waterlogging. A neutral to slightly alkaline soil (pH towards 7) suits it and helps prevent clubroot; on acidic soil, work lime in shallowly before planting.

Brassicas are heavy feeders and susceptible to clubroot; observe a 4-year break and do not follow directly on from other crucifers such as radishes or mustard.

Feeding

Heavy feeder

Months

Mar–Jul

Broccoli is a heavy feeder: when preparing the bed in spring (or in summer for autumn growing), work mature compost and horn shavings shallowly into the soil. That is the base feed. About 4 to 6 weeks after planting out, when the heads begin to form, you can feed again with nettle liquid feed or diluted compost tea. For autumn growing, end the nitrogen-rich feeding by the end of August at the latest, so that the tissue does not become soft and prone to frost damage.

Overwintering

Grow broccoli as an annual vegetable: start it in spring, plant it outdoors from May, harvest from summer to autumn, after which the plant dies off; you do not overwinter normal summer varieties. If you want to harvest the following spring, choose a winter broccoli variety (e.g. Purple Sprouting), sow it in summer and cover it with horticultural fleece or brushwood in hard frost.

Propagation

Methods

  • From seed

You propagate broccoli exclusively from seed; cuttings or division are not standard practice with brassicas. For saving your own seed, be sure to use open-pollinated varieties (e.g. ‘Calabrese’ or ‘Rasmus’); F1 hybrid varieties do not produce true-to-type seed.

Spring growing: From February or March, sow indoors in low-nutrient seed compost, about 0.5 cm deep; broccoli is a dark-germinating seed, so cover the seeds well. At 15 to 20 °C the seeds germinate within around 7 to 14 days. As soon as the seedlings show their first true leaves (about three to five leaves), prick out each plant into its own pot. After about 4 to 6 weeks, when night frosts are no longer a threat (from mid-May), plant the young plants out in the bed at a spacing of 40 to 50 cm.

Summer sowing for the autumn harvest: A second sowing period runs from May to July, directly outdoors or in a seedbed. Starting them in trays is safer here too, because the seedlings are then protected from slugs and weather swings. That way you harvest heads from August to October.

Seed saving: If you want to harvest your own seed, let a few open-pollinated plants flower fully and the pods ripen. This is for the patient, as broccoli often only completes flowering in the second year. As soon as the pods are light brown and dry, cut off the shoots and let them dry further before you extract the seeds and store them cool, dark and dry.

Companion planting

Good neighbors

legume family (Fabaceae)

particularly well established

Leguminous plants collect nitrogen in the soil, from which Brassicaceae benefit as heavy feeders.

For example Bush beanPole beanBroad beanSnow peaWrinkled peaRunner bean and 35 more species in the catalogue

Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)

carrot family (Apiaceae)

You can pair celery and dill with all Brassicaceae because they repel the cabbage whitefly with their scent, a proven companion.

For example CarrotCeleriacDillParsleyFlorence fennelCoriander and 21 more species in the catalogue

Source: Bio-Gärtnerei Mixed-culture Practice

mint family (Lamiaceae)

You will notice that the intense scent of basil, thyme, and others confuses the cabbage whitefly and keeps it away from the cabbage family.

For example LavenderThymeBasilRosemarySageHyssop and 43 more species in the catalogue

Source: bio-gardening intercropping practice

nasturtium family (Tropaeolaceae)

Nasturtium serves as a trap plant for you. Aphids and cabbage whiteflies prefer it over the brassicaceae next to it.

For example NasturtiumMashua

Source: Trap plant practice in organic horticulture

Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.

Some of these explanations were machine-translated.

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Varieties

6 varieties
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