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Raphanus sativus var. sativus

Radish

At a glance

Light
Full sun
Spacing
5 cm, rows 15 cm
Lifespan
Annual
Sowing
Mar–Sep
Harvest
Apr–Oct
Hardiness
Cold damage below −3 °C
Water need
Medium
For children
Well suited
Radish

Description

Radishes are the fastest vegetable in the garden, four to six weeks from sowing to the sharp, crisp bulb. That is exactly why they are ideal for getting children excited about gardening.

Care instructions

Sow thinly and only about a centimetre deep, a small portion again and again across the season. Keep the soil evenly moist; spells that are too dry make the bulbs spongy and woody hot, while sowing too densely leaves them making only leaves.

The care notes were machine-translated from German.

Garden year

SowingMar–Sep

HarvestApr–Oct

Germination

Soil temperature
from 4 °C, ideally 20 °C
Days to sprout
3 to 7 days
Light
Sprouts in light or dark
Sowing depth
1 cm
How to start
Sow straight into the bed

Soil & site

Soil pH

4.0pH 6–78.0

Soil type

sandy, loamy, humus-rich, well-drained, moist

LightFull sun
Hours of sunat least 4 h a day
HardinessFrost-sensitive
Crop rotationBrassicas
Water needMedium

Give radishes loose, humus-rich, evenly moist soil. Waterlogging makes the roots rot, while drought makes them woody and hot. A free-draining, sandy-loamy soil is ideal; loosen heavy soils deeply before sowing. Keep the pH slightly acidic to neutral, because above 7 the soil favours black root rot.

Brassicas are heavy feeders and susceptible to clubroot. Keep a 4-year break and do not follow directly on other crucifers such as radishes or mustard.

Feeding

Light feeder

Months

Mar, Apr, Aug, Sep

As light feeders, radishes need hardly any feeding. A well-prepared soil is usually entirely sufficient. Before spring sowing (March to April), work in a little mature compost shallowly. For autumn sowings (August to September), a small dressing of horn meal is enough on depleted soil, as it becomes available faster than coarse horn shavings. Better to feed too little than too much: too much nitrogen in particular promotes blackening of the roots and raises the nitrate content.

Overwintering

Radish is an annual, so there is nothing to overwinter: you simply sow again in spring (from March, earlier under fleece). Late autumn crops can be covered with fleece in frost so that they can still ripen.

Propagation

Methods

  • From seed

You propagate radishes exclusively by direct sowing. Sow the seeds from March (cold frame/greenhouse from early March, outdoors from late March) to early September, about 3 to 5 cm apart in rows, with 10 to 15 cm between rows. The sowing depth is 0.5 to 1 cm; seeds sown deeper germinate worse and often form long, misshapen roots. At around 12 to 15 °C the seeds germinate within about a week, and after 3 to 4 weeks the first roots are ready to harvest. Keep the soil evenly moist to avoid split roots. For a harvest throughout the season, sow a new row every 1 to 2 weeks (succession sowing). In high summer choose a lightly shaded spot, as radishes bolt quickly in great heat.

If you want to save your own seed, note: use only open-pollinated (non-hybrid, not “F1”) varieties. The next generation of hybrids does not come true to variety. Radishes are also self-incompatible cross-pollinators, pollinated by insects, and they cross easily with other radish varieties and even with winter radish (same species). So let only a single variety flower per season or isolate the varieties in space or time, otherwise the harvested seed is no longer true to variety. Let at least 15 to 20 strong plants go to flower (a broad base of plants preserves variety diversity). From mid/late May the plants become woody and form flowers, after which green pods develop. When the pods turn brown to greyish but the plant is still vigorous, harvest them and let them dry further in a dry place for 2 to 3 weeks before you take out the seeds and store them cool and dry. Tip: wrap ripening pods in organza bags so that you do not lose seeds when pods burst.

Companion planting

Good neighbors

legume family (Fabaceae)

particularly well established

Leguminous plants collect nitrogen in the soil, from which Brassicaceae benefit as heavy feeders.

For example Bush beanPole beanBroad beanRunner beanLima beanchickpea and 33 more species in the catalogue

Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)

carrot family (Apiaceae)

You can pair celery and dill with all Brassicaceae because they repel the cabbage whitefly with their scent, a proven companion.

For example CeleriacDillFlorence fennelCorianderCelery (Stalk Celery)Caraway and 15 more species in the catalogue

Source: Bio-Gärtnerei Mixed-culture Practice

mint family (Lamiaceae)

You will notice that the intense scent of basil, thyme, and others confuses the cabbage whitefly and keeps it away from the cabbage family.

For example LavenderThymeBasilRosemarySageBee balm and 42 more species in the catalogue

Source: bio-gardening intercropping practice

nasturtium family (Tropaeolaceae)

Nasturtium serves as a trap plant for you. Aphids and cabbage whiteflies prefer it over the brassicaceae next to it.

For example NasturtiumMashua

Source: Trap plant practice in organic horticulture

Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.

Some of these explanations were machine-translated.

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For your garden

Grow Radish yourself

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Varieties

5 varieties
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