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Brassica oleracea var. sabellica

Kale

Common names: Curly kale, Borecole

At a glance

Light
Full sun
Spacing
50 cm, rows 60 cm
Lifespan
Biennial
Sowing
May–Jun
Harvest
Jan, Feb, Nov, Dec
Hardiness
Hardy down to −15 °C
Water need
Medium
Kale

Description

Kale is the winter powerhouse in the bed and tastes best after the first frost, when the starch turns into sugar. Curly cultivars such as ‘Halbhoher Grüner Krauser’ or the tender palm kale relatives supply vitamins deep into winter. Frosty nights are what make it really mild.

Care instructions

Sow it from May (week 19) and plant the strong young plants out from July (week 28) with generous spacing. Hill the tall plants up slightly so they stay upright. From November (week 45) always harvest the lower leaves first, then it keeps growing from the top.

The care notes were machine-translated from German.

Garden year

SowingMay–Jun

HarvestJan–Feb, Nov–Dec

Germination

Soil temperature
from 5 °C, ideally 20 °C
Days to sprout
4 to 10 days
Light
Sprouts in light or dark
Sowing depth
1 cm
How to start
Start indoors, then plant out

Soil & site

Soil pH

4.0pH 6.5–7.58.0

Soil type

loamy, humus-rich, nutrient-rich, well-drained

LightFull sun
Hours of sunat least 6 h a day
HardinessHardy
Crop rotationBrassicas
Water needMedium

Kale likes deep, loamy, humus-rich soils with good water and nutrient retention; it does not tolerate waterlogging, so the subsoil should be free-draining. On light sandy soils, compost worked in helps. Keep the pH in the neutral to slightly lime-rich range (around 7), which helps prevent clubroot; on soil that is too acidic, apply lime in autumn.

Brassicas are heavy feeders and prone to clubroot; keep to a 4-year break and do not follow directly on from other crucifers such as radishes or mustard.

Feeding

Heavy feeder

Months

Mar–Jul

In spring before planting, work mature compost and horn shavings shallowly into the soil. This is the basic supply for the season. Unlike head cabbage, kale keeps producing new leaves and needs an even supply of nitrogen; an organic top-up during the main growth phase (May to July), for example with nettle liquid feed, makes sense. Work in horn shavings by the end of August at the latest, so that they are broken down before winter and no nitrogen is washed out.

Overwintering

Kale stays in the bed all winter and survives down to about -15 °C in Central European lowlands without protection; frost even makes it sweeter. Harvest bit by bit from the outside in, and only in severe, lasting frost can you lay brushwood or horticultural fleece loosely over it.

Propagation

Methods

  • From seed

In a home garden you propagate kale almost exclusively from seed. Vegetative methods play no useful role. You have two options: raising young plants first, or sowing directly.

Raising young plants (recommended): From April, sow into pots or seed trays, about 1 to 2 cm deep. Keep the soil evenly moist; in warm temperatures the seeds germinate within about a week. Continue growing the seedlings cool and bright so they do not become leggy. Once the young plants are 10 to 15 cm tall and have several true leaves (after about 4 to 6 weeks), plant them out in the bed.

Direct sowing: From mid May until August you can sow straight into the open ground, about 1 to 2 cm deep. After emergence, thin to 40 to 50 cm apart in the row, with 50 to 60 cm between rows.

Choose a sunny to partly shaded spot with nutrient-rich, deep soil. Kale is a long-season crop and very frost-hardy (down to about -15 °C). Harvesting begins in autumn and carries on into winter. Contrary to what is often claimed, kale does not need frost: cool temperatures alone make the plant convert starch into sugar, which gives it its mild flavour. Frost is therefore not strictly necessary, but it does no harm either.

Your own seed: Kale is biennial and only flowers in its second year. It is cross-pollinated: if you want seed that comes true to variety, let several plants of the same variety flower together and keep away from other flowering brassicas. F1 hybrids are not suitable for saving seed that comes true.

Companion planting

Good neighbors

legume family (Fabaceae)

particularly well established

Leguminous plants collect nitrogen in the soil, from which Brassicaceae benefit as heavy feeders.

For example Bush beanPole beanBroad beanSnow peaWrinkled peaRunner bean and 35 more species in the catalogue

Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)

carrot family (Apiaceae)

You can pair celery and dill with all Brassicaceae because they repel the cabbage whitefly with their scent, a proven companion.

For example CarrotCeleriacDillParsleyFlorence fennelCoriander and 21 more species in the catalogue

Source: Bio-Gärtnerei Mixed-culture Practice

mint family (Lamiaceae)

You will notice that the intense scent of basil, thyme, and others confuses the cabbage whitefly and keeps it away from the cabbage family.

For example LavenderThymeBasilRosemarySageHyssop and 43 more species in the catalogue

Source: bio-gardening intercropping practice

nasturtium family (Tropaeolaceae)

Nasturtium serves as a trap plant for you. Aphids and cabbage whiteflies prefer it over the brassicaceae next to it.

For example NasturtiumMashua

Source: Trap plant practice in organic horticulture

Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.

Some of these explanations were machine-translated.

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