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Capsicum chinense

Chili

Common names: Habanero, Hot Pepper

At a glance

Light
Full sun
Spacing
40 cm, rows 50 cm
Lifespan
Annual
Sowing
Feb–Mar
Harvest
Aug–Oct
Hardiness
Cold damage below 5 °C
Water need
Medium
Chili

This description was machine-translated.

Description

Chilis of the species Capsicum chinense produce the fruitiest and hottest peppers, ranging from the golden yellow Habanero to the hellishly hot Carolina Reaper. They require a long warm season and mature best in pots on a balcony, terrace or greenhouse. The plants are perennial and can be overwintered in a bright location.

Care instructions

Sow seeds warm from February on a windowsill, as these varieties mature slowly. Plant them only after the last frost (mid May, week 20) in the warmest, sunniest spot and water moderately but evenly at the root. Fertilize sparingly with potassium, harvest the peppers when fully colored, and bring the pots indoors before the first frost.

The care notes were machine-translated from German.

Garden year

SowingFeb–Mar

HarvestAug–Oct

Germination

Soil temperature
from 18 °C, ideally 28 °C
Days to sprout
10 to 21 days
Light
Sprouts in light or dark
Sowing depth
0.5 cm
How to start
Start indoors, then plant out

Soil & site

Soil pH

4.0pH 6–6.88.0

Soil type

humus-rich, well-drained, nutrient-rich

LightFull sun
Hours of sunat least 6 h a day
HardinessFrost-sensitive
Crop rotationNightshades
Water needMedium

Give chilli a loose, humus-rich, well-drained soil. Avoid heavy, waterlogged soils, or the roots will rot. Capsicum chinense loves warm soil: a layer of mulch in spring helps the soil warm up faster.

Nightshades (tomato, potato, pepper) are heavy feeders and prone to disease. A break of at least 4 years on the same bed guards against soil fatigue and blight.

Feeding

Heavy feeder

Months

May–Aug

When planting out in May, work horn shavings and mature compost shallowly into the soil. This supplies the plant slowly with nitrogen and nutrients over the whole season. From flowering in June and through the fruiting phase (July to August), feed regularly with diluted nettle feed or comfrey tea to top up potassium organically. From autumn, give no more nitrogen.

Overwintering

Bring your chilli indoors before the first frost. It is perennial but not hardy, and it is damaged below about 13 °C. Cut it back hard, keep it bright and frost-free at around 10 to 15 °C, water only sparingly and do not feed; in spring after the Ice Saints, repot it and put it back outside.

Propagation

Methods

  • From seed
  • Cuttings

Sowing (main method): Sow Capsicum chinense much earlier than other chilli species, ideally in early to mid-January, mid-February at the latest. The species germinates and grows more slowly than Capsicum annuum and needs this head start because of its long growing time (habaneros and the like often ripen only after 95 to 120 days). Use a mini greenhouse or a covered propagation tray and keep a constant soil temperature of 25 to 28 °C; a heat mat under the tray helps. Press the seeds only lightly into moist seed compost, cover them with a thin layer of about 0.5 cm and keep the humidity high. Capsicum chinense germinates more slowly than other species, usually 2 to 4 weeks, and longer under less than ideal conditions; if nothing has come up after 6 weeks, the attempt probably failed. Once the seedlings have their first true leaves, prick them out into individual pots and keep them a little cooler (around 20 °C). Put them in the brightest spot in the house or add plant lamps, since January/February is too dark for strong seedlings.

Cuttings (secondary method, worthwhile for favourite varieties): Capsicum chinense is perennial and overwinters well. In early summer, or at the latest in late summer (August/September, before it turns wet and cold), cut shoot tips 8 to 12 cm long directly below a leaf node. Remove the lower leaves and keep 2 to 3 at the top. Put the cuttings in moist seed compost or in a glass of water, cover them with a bag or a glass to hold in the moisture, and keep them warm (about 20 to 25 °C) and bright. Roots form after a few weeks. Alternatively, overwinter the mother plant indoors at no less than 10 °C and take cuttings in late winter or early spring for the new season; that way you start with an already established plant and harvest earlier than from sowing alone.

Companion planting

Good neighbors

mint family (Lamiaceae)

particularly well established

You will find that basil next to tomato and pepper improves taste and keeps whiteflies and aphids away.

For example LavenderThymeRosemarySageHyssopBee balm and 42 more species in the catalogue

Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)

borage family (Boraginaceae)

Borage attracts pollinators and is supposed to keep tomato pests away from the nightshade family.

For example BorageCommon comfreyLacy phaceliaForget-me-notLungwortSiberian bugloss and 2 more species in the catalogue

Source: organic greenhouse companion planting practice

Rather not

gourd family (Cucurbitaceae)

You should avoid planting potato and cucumber together because they share disease pathogens such as leaf and brown rot and stand in each other's way as strong feeders.

For example CucumberPumpkinCourgettePickling cucumberButternutHokkaido and 15 more species in the catalogue

Source: basic crop-rotation rule

Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.

Some of these explanations were machine-translated.

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Varieties

8 varieties
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