Capsicum annuum
Sweet pepper
Common names: Bell pepper, Capsicum
At a glance
- Light
- Full sun
- Spacing
- 40 cm, rows 50 cm
- Lifespan
- Annual
- Sowing
- Feb–Mar
- Harvest
- Jul–Oct
- Hardiness
- Cold damage below 5 °C
- Water need
- Medium
- For children
- Well suited
Photo: Franz Eugen Köhler, Köhler's Medizinal-Pflanzen · Public Domain · Source
Description
The sweet pepper loves warmth and sun and rewards you with crisp, sweet fruits in green, yellow and red. In a pot on the balcony or in the greenhouse it ripens most reliably. Blocky cultivars such as ‘California Wonder’ are robust and productive.
Care instructions
Raise it from late February (week 9) warm on the windowsill and plant it out only after the ice saints (mid-May, week 20). Water evenly with lukewarm water and feed the medium feeders regularly. Support the plants, because when fully laden the shoots snap off easily.
The care notes were machine-translated from German.
Garden year
SowingFeb–Mar
HarvestJul–Oct
Germination
- Soil temperature
- from 15 °C, ideally 28 °C
- Days to sprout
- 10 to 21 days
- Light
- Sprouts in light or dark
- Sowing depth
- 0.5 cm
- How to start
- Start indoors, then plant out
Soil & site
Soil pH
Soil type
humus-rich, well-drained, loamy, nutrient-rich
Pepper needs deep, humus-rich and well-drained soil, best slightly sandy-loamy, so that no water stands. The plant tolerates waterlogging particularly poorly; on heavy soils, loosen deeply with compost and sand before planting. A warm, wind-sheltered south-facing spot or a south wall gives the heat-loving plant the right microclimate.
Nightshades (tomato, potato, pepper) are heavy feeders and prone to disease; a break of at least 4 years on the same bed prevents soil fatigue and blight.
Feeding
Heavy feeder
Months
Apr–Aug
Prepare the bed in autumn or early spring with mature compost and a little horn shavings and work both in shallowly; this is the basic supply. After planting out in mid-May, add nothing at first. As soon as the first flower buds appear (June/July), you can feed regularly with diluted plant liquid feed or compost tea to support flowering and fruit set. From late summer, reduce the feeding so the fruit can ripen in peace.
Overwintering
Pepper is not hardy and is damaged at as little as around 5 °C. Before the first night frosts, bring the plant into bright, cool, frost-free quarters (ideally 10–15 °C, such as a windowsill or bright stairwell) and cut it back lightly beforehand. Over winter, water only very sparingly and do not feed; after the Ice Saints it may go back outdoors. Pot up outdoor plants into a container beforehand.
Propagation
Methods
- From seed
- Cuttings
Sowing (main method): Sow pepper indoors between mid-February and mid-March. Raising young plants takes around 8 to 10 weeks. Fill seed pots or trays with fine seed compost, press the seeds in about 0.5 to 1 cm deep and keep the soil evenly moist. For reliable germination you need constant soil warmth of about 25 °C (range 22 to 28 °C); a heated propagator mat or a warm place in the house helps. Cover the containers with a translucent lid to retain warmth and humidity. At optimal warmth the seeds usually germinate after 10 to 14 days; at cooler or fluctuating temperatures it can take up to three weeks. Put the seedlings somewhere bright straight away, otherwise they become leggy; in February/March supplementary lighting is often sensible. Once the young plants have two to three pairs of true leaves, prick them out individually into 9 cm pots. After the Ice Saints (mid-May) you can set them 40 to 50 cm apart in the greenhouse or in a warm, sheltered spot outdoors; harden them off beforehand by putting them outside during the day for several days.
Cuttings (supplementary method, only for overwintered plants): If you have kept an especially good plant over the winter, propagation from cuttings in late winter (end of February) from the fresh new growth is worthwhile. Cut tip cuttings 5 to 10 cm long near the shoot tip with a sharp, clean knife just below a leaf node. Remove the lower leaves, leave only one or two small leaves at the top, and insert the cutting into moist seed compost. Place a clear lid or bag over it (mini greenhouse); this keeps the humidity high. Stable soil warmth around 25 °C promotes rooting; depending on conditions the first roots show after about 2 to 4 weeks. Afterwards, gradually get the rooted cutting used to drier air by taking the cover off a little longer each day. This way you secure true-to-type copies of your favourite plant, but it requires that the mother plant overwintered well.
Companion planting
Good neighbors
mint family (Lamiaceae)
particularly well establishedYou will find that basil next to tomato and pepper improves taste and keeps whiteflies and aphids away.
For example LavenderThymeRosemarySageHyssopBee balm and 42 more species in the catalogue
Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)
borage family (Boraginaceae)
Borage attracts pollinators and is supposed to keep tomato pests away from the nightshade family.
For example BorageCommon comfreyLacy phaceliaForget-me-notLungwortSiberian bugloss and 2 more species in the catalogue
Source: organic greenhouse companion planting practice
Rather not
gourd family (Cucurbitaceae)
You should avoid planting potato and cucumber together because they share disease pathogens such as leaf and brown rot and stand in each other's way as strong feeders.
For example CucumberPumpkinCourgettePickling cucumberButternutHokkaido and 15 more species in the catalogue
Source: basic crop-rotation rule
Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.
Some of these explanations were machine-translated.
For signed-in gardeners
Sign in to see symptoms, severity, season and prevention for every one of your plants.
Free account, set up in 30 seconds.
For your garden
Grow Sweet pepper yourself
Gartenkern tells you when frost is coming, when to sow and when to harvest, for your location.
Free, no time limit
Varieties
8 varieties‘California Wonder’
You grow ‚California Wonder’, a robust classic among block peppers, proven for almost a hundred years.
‘Corno di Toro Rosso’
you will find the Italian bullhorn pepper, named after its long, curved fruits that resemble a horn.
‘Roter Liebesapfel’
An old tomato pepper with flat, round, ribbed fruits that really do recall a small tomato.
‘Lombardo’
An Italian frying pepper with long, thin-walled, slightly wavy fruits that you harvest by preference green and young.
‘Neusiedler Ideal Elite’
An early, compact pointed pepper from the Austrian Seewinkel, ideal for pots and balconies.
‘Roter Augsburger’
An old German pointed pepper that wins people over in harsher locations with its early ripening and sturdiness.
‘Snack Yellow’
A modern mini snacking pepper (F1 hybrid) that carries small, handy fruits in abundance.
‘Yolo Wonder’
A proven further development of the old blocky pepper, valued for its dense, protective foliage and its good tolerance to tobacco mosaic virus.
Notes from real gardens
What other gardeners have written down about this variety, anonymous and voluntary.
No notes shared yet. Will you be the first to write one down?
From the magazine
Peppers and chillies: raising, heat and the right variety
Peppers and chillies are almost the same plant, the difference is the heat. Both need lots of warmth and a very early start. Here is how the raising succeeds from February, and how to find the right variety between the mild sweet pepper and the fiery habanero.
Feeding Heavy Feeders: How to Fertilise Fruiting Vegetables Right
Tomato, pepper, courgette and squash are the hungriest residents of the bed. How to feed them potassium instead of nitrogen and read leaf colour as your gauge.
Pre-growing on the windowsill: sturdy young plants, not leggy floppers
Tomatoes, peppers and chillies need a head start only the windowsill gives. Why most seed-raising fails not at germination but at going leggy afterwards, and how bright instead of warm raises sturdy young plants.
The windowsill becomes a nursery: your garden in February
There's still frost in the air, but in February the season quietly gets going: on the windowsill you start your tomatoes and peppers, the early potatoes chit, and on mild days the first tough seeds can even go straight outside.
