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Capsicum annuum

Sweet pepper

Common names: Bell pepper, Capsicum

At a glance

Light
Full sun
Spacing
40 cm, rows 50 cm
Lifespan
Annual
Sowing
Feb–Mar
Harvest
Jul–Oct
Hardiness
Cold damage below 5 °C
Water need
Medium
For children
Well suited
Sweet pepper

Photo: Franz Eugen Köhler, Köhler's Medizinal-Pflanzen · Public Domain · Source

Description

The sweet pepper loves warmth and sun and rewards you with crisp, sweet fruits in green, yellow and red. In a pot on the balcony or in the greenhouse it ripens most reliably. Blocky cultivars such as ‘California Wonder’ are robust and productive.

Care instructions

Raise it from late February (week 9) warm on the windowsill and plant it out only after the ice saints (mid-May, week 20). Water evenly with lukewarm water and feed the medium feeders regularly. Support the plants, because when fully laden the shoots snap off easily.

The care notes were machine-translated from German.

Garden year

SowingFeb–Mar

HarvestJul–Oct

Germination

Soil temperature
from 15 °C, ideally 28 °C
Days to sprout
10 to 21 days
Light
Sprouts in light or dark
Sowing depth
0.5 cm
How to start
Start indoors, then plant out

Soil & site

Soil pH

4.0pH 6–6.88.0

Soil type

humus-rich, well-drained, loamy, nutrient-rich

LightFull sun
Hours of sunat least 6 h a day
HardinessFrost-sensitive
Crop rotationNightshades
Water needMedium

Pepper needs deep, humus-rich and well-drained soil, best slightly sandy-loamy, so that no water stands. The plant tolerates waterlogging particularly poorly; on heavy soils, loosen deeply with compost and sand before planting. A warm, wind-sheltered south-facing spot or a south wall gives the heat-loving plant the right microclimate.

Nightshades (tomato, potato, pepper) are heavy feeders and prone to disease; a break of at least 4 years on the same bed prevents soil fatigue and blight.

Feeding

Heavy feeder

Months

Apr–Aug

Prepare the bed in autumn or early spring with mature compost and a little horn shavings and work both in shallowly; this is the basic supply. After planting out in mid-May, add nothing at first. As soon as the first flower buds appear (June/July), you can feed regularly with diluted plant liquid feed or compost tea to support flowering and fruit set. From late summer, reduce the feeding so the fruit can ripen in peace.

Overwintering

Pepper is not hardy and is damaged at as little as around 5 °C. Before the first night frosts, bring the plant into bright, cool, frost-free quarters (ideally 10–15 °C, such as a windowsill or bright stairwell) and cut it back lightly beforehand. Over winter, water only very sparingly and do not feed; after the Ice Saints it may go back outdoors. Pot up outdoor plants into a container beforehand.

Propagation

Methods

  • From seed
  • Cuttings

Sowing (main method): Sow pepper indoors between mid-February and mid-March. Raising young plants takes around 8 to 10 weeks. Fill seed pots or trays with fine seed compost, press the seeds in about 0.5 to 1 cm deep and keep the soil evenly moist. For reliable germination you need constant soil warmth of about 25 °C (range 22 to 28 °C); a heated propagator mat or a warm place in the house helps. Cover the containers with a translucent lid to retain warmth and humidity. At optimal warmth the seeds usually germinate after 10 to 14 days; at cooler or fluctuating temperatures it can take up to three weeks. Put the seedlings somewhere bright straight away, otherwise they become leggy; in February/March supplementary lighting is often sensible. Once the young plants have two to three pairs of true leaves, prick them out individually into 9 cm pots. After the Ice Saints (mid-May) you can set them 40 to 50 cm apart in the greenhouse or in a warm, sheltered spot outdoors; harden them off beforehand by putting them outside during the day for several days.

Cuttings (supplementary method, only for overwintered plants): If you have kept an especially good plant over the winter, propagation from cuttings in late winter (end of February) from the fresh new growth is worthwhile. Cut tip cuttings 5 to 10 cm long near the shoot tip with a sharp, clean knife just below a leaf node. Remove the lower leaves, leave only one or two small leaves at the top, and insert the cutting into moist seed compost. Place a clear lid or bag over it (mini greenhouse); this keeps the humidity high. Stable soil warmth around 25 °C promotes rooting; depending on conditions the first roots show after about 2 to 4 weeks. Afterwards, gradually get the rooted cutting used to drier air by taking the cover off a little longer each day. This way you secure true-to-type copies of your favourite plant, but it requires that the mother plant overwintered well.

Companion planting

Good neighbors

mint family (Lamiaceae)

particularly well established

You will find that basil next to tomato and pepper improves taste and keeps whiteflies and aphids away.

For example LavenderThymeRosemarySageHyssopBee balm and 42 more species in the catalogue

Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)

borage family (Boraginaceae)

Borage attracts pollinators and is supposed to keep tomato pests away from the nightshade family.

For example BorageCommon comfreyLacy phaceliaForget-me-notLungwortSiberian bugloss and 2 more species in the catalogue

Source: organic greenhouse companion planting practice

Rather not

gourd family (Cucurbitaceae)

You should avoid planting potato and cucumber together because they share disease pathogens such as leaf and brown rot and stand in each other's way as strong feeders.

For example CucumberPumpkinCourgettePickling cucumberButternutHokkaido and 15 more species in the catalogue

Source: basic crop-rotation rule

Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.

Some of these explanations were machine-translated.

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For your garden

Grow Sweet pepper yourself

Gartenkern tells you when frost is coming, when to sow and when to harvest, for your location.

Varieties

8 varieties
View all 8 varieties

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