Solanum melongena
Eggplant
Common names: Aubergine
At a glance
- Light
- Full sun
- Spacing
- 50 cm, rows 70 cm
- Lifespan
- Annual
- Sowing
- Feb–Mar
- Harvest
- Jul–Oct
- Hardiness
- Cold damage below 5 °C
- Water need
- High
Photo: Joydeep · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Source
This description was machine-translated.
Description
The eggplant is a heat-loving relative of tomato and pepper and needs a protected sunny spot. It feels most comfortable in a greenhouse or pot. Varieties such as 'Black Beauty' produce dark violet fruits that you harvest young and shiny.
Care instructions
Start the seedlings at the end of February week 9 on the windowsill and transplant them only after the last frost mid May week 20. Water evenly and warm, never cold from above, and fertilize the heavy feeders every two weeks. Support the stems and remove the first side shoots for stronger fruit.
The care notes were machine-translated from German.
Garden year
SowingFeb–Mar
HarvestJul–Oct
Germination
- Soil temperature
- from 18 °C, ideally 28 °C
- Days to sprout
- 10 to 21 days
- Light
- Sprouts in light or dark
- Sowing depth
- 0.5 cm
- How to start
- Start indoors, then plant out
Soil & site
Soil pH
Soil type
humus-rich, well-drained, nutrient-rich, loamy
Aubergines need a deeply loosened, humus-rich and well-drained soil that warms up quickly. Heavy, waterlogged soils are unsuitable because they easily lead to root rot. A loamy, humus-rich mix that retains water well while staying airy is ideal.
Nightshades (tomato, potato, pepper) are heavy feeders and prone to disease. A break of at least 4 years on the same bed helps prevent soil fatigue and blight.
Feeding
Heavy feeder
Months
Apr–Aug
In spring, before planting out, work well-rotted compost and horn shavings in shallowly. This provides the organic base supply for the season. From shoot growth to flowering, you can top up every few weeks with diluted nettle or compost liquid feed. Once fruit begins to form, ease off the nitrogen somewhat and rely more on potassium-rich organic material to support fruit set and fruit quality.
Overwintering
The aubergine does not tolerate frost and is grown as an annual in the open ground in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. After harvest it goes on the compost heap. Bring potted plants indoors before the first cold nights (below about 10 °C), cut the shoots back to a hand's breadth and overwinter them in a bright, frost-free place at around 10 to 15 °C; water only sparingly, do not feed and watch out for spider mites.
Propagation
Methods
- From seed
- Cuttings
Sowing (main method): Sow aubergines indoors in seed compost between mid-February and early March; from sowing to planting out takes around 8 to 10 weeks. Press the seeds about 0.5 to 1 cm deep into moist seed compost and put the tray somewhere warm: aubergines only germinate reliably from 20 to 25 °C, and 25 to 28 °C is ideal. Cover the tray with a lid or a clear propagator cover to keep the moisture in; germination takes 15 to 21 days, depending on temperature. As soon as the seedlings appear, give them a very bright spot without fail, otherwise they turn leggy (long, thin, pale shoots). Prick out into individual pots when the first true pair of leaves is visible, and keep night temperatures above 18 °C. From mid-May, once night frosts are no longer a threat, plant out into the open ground or the greenhouse. Aubergines need more warmth than tomatoes: in the climate of Germany, Austria and Switzerland, a sheltered, fully sunny spot, a polytunnel or the greenhouse works well.
Cuttings (supplementary method, worthwhile for valuable varieties): If you want to save a special variety over the winter, take shoot tips 8 to 12 cm long in August or September, remove the lower leaves and put the cuttings into moist seed compost or first into a glass of water. At room temperature and in plenty of light, roots form within about two to four weeks; changing the water every few days helps prevent rot. Pot rooted cuttings into nutrient-rich compost and overwinter the plants in a bright, frost-free place at 10 to 15 °C, away from dry heating air; water only sparingly in winter. Because overwintering is demanding and risks pest infestation (e.g. spider mites, whitefly), this method is mainly worthwhile for open-pollinated favourites, which would otherwise be easy to grow again from seed, or for F1 hybrids, which do not come true from seed.
Companion planting
Good neighbors
mint family (Lamiaceae)
particularly well establishedYou will find that basil next to tomato and pepper improves taste and keeps whiteflies and aphids away.
For example LavenderThymeRosemarySageHyssopBee balm and 42 more species in the catalogue
Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)
borage family (Boraginaceae)
Borage attracts pollinators and is supposed to keep tomato pests away from the nightshade family.
For example BorageCommon comfreyLacy phaceliaForget-me-notLungwortSiberian bugloss and 2 more species in the catalogue
Source: organic greenhouse companion planting practice
Rather not
gourd family (Cucurbitaceae)
You should avoid planting potato and cucumber together because they share disease pathogens such as leaf and brown rot and stand in each other's way as strong feeders.
For example CucumberPumpkinCourgettePickling cucumberButternutHokkaido and 15 more species in the catalogue
Source: basic crop-rotation rule
Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.
Some of these explanations were machine-translated.
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Varieties
7 varieties‘Black Beauty’
You will find the worldwide popular classic ‚Black Beauty’ with deep black‑violet, glossy fruits that become round‑oval and quite heavy.
‘Clara F1’
You will find ‚Clara F1’ a modern F1 hybrid with ivory‑white, egg‑shaped fruits and vigorous, yield‑secure growth.
‘De Barbentane’
An old Provençal variety with long, slender, deep violet fruits that thrive in the warm south.
‘Listada de Gandia’
This Spanish beauty bears egg shaped fruits with striking white and violet striping that turns any bed into an eye catcher.
‘Ophelia F1’
A modern mini aubergine with many small, egg shaped fruits, particularly suited to pots and balconies.
‘Rosa Bianca’
An Italian heirloom variety with round, bulbous fruits in a soft pink lavender shaded with white.
‘Violetta Lunga’
A classic Italian variety with long, slender and glossy dark purple fruit, just as you know it from the Mediterranean vegetable garden.
Notes from real gardens
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