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Solanum melongena

Eggplant

Common names: Aubergine

At a glance

Light
Full sun
Spacing
50 cm, rows 70 cm
Lifespan
Annual
Sowing
Feb–Mar
Harvest
Jul–Oct
Hardiness
Cold damage below 5 °C
Water need
High
Eggplant

This description was machine-translated.

Description

The eggplant is a heat-loving relative of tomato and pepper and needs a protected sunny spot. It feels most comfortable in a greenhouse or pot. Varieties such as 'Black Beauty' produce dark violet fruits that you harvest young and shiny.

Care instructions

Start the seedlings at the end of February week 9 on the windowsill and transplant them only after the last frost mid May week 20. Water evenly and warm, never cold from above, and fertilize the heavy feeders every two weeks. Support the stems and remove the first side shoots for stronger fruit.

The care notes were machine-translated from German.

Garden year

SowingFeb–Mar

HarvestJul–Oct

Germination

Soil temperature
from 18 °C, ideally 28 °C
Days to sprout
10 to 21 days
Light
Sprouts in light or dark
Sowing depth
0.5 cm
How to start
Start indoors, then plant out

Soil & site

Soil pH

4.0pH 6–6.88.0

Soil type

humus-rich, well-drained, nutrient-rich, loamy

LightFull sun
Hours of sunat least 8 h a day
HardinessFrost-sensitive
Crop rotationNightshades
Water needHigh

Aubergines need a deeply loosened, humus-rich and well-drained soil that warms up quickly. Heavy, waterlogged soils are unsuitable because they easily lead to root rot. A loamy, humus-rich mix that retains water well while staying airy is ideal.

Nightshades (tomato, potato, pepper) are heavy feeders and prone to disease. A break of at least 4 years on the same bed helps prevent soil fatigue and blight.

Feeding

Heavy feeder

Months

Apr–Aug

In spring, before planting out, work well-rotted compost and horn shavings in shallowly. This provides the organic base supply for the season. From shoot growth to flowering, you can top up every few weeks with diluted nettle or compost liquid feed. Once fruit begins to form, ease off the nitrogen somewhat and rely more on potassium-rich organic material to support fruit set and fruit quality.

Overwintering

The aubergine does not tolerate frost and is grown as an annual in the open ground in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. After harvest it goes on the compost heap. Bring potted plants indoors before the first cold nights (below about 10 °C), cut the shoots back to a hand's breadth and overwinter them in a bright, frost-free place at around 10 to 15 °C; water only sparingly, do not feed and watch out for spider mites.

Propagation

Methods

  • From seed
  • Cuttings

Sowing (main method): Sow aubergines indoors in seed compost between mid-February and early March; from sowing to planting out takes around 8 to 10 weeks. Press the seeds about 0.5 to 1 cm deep into moist seed compost and put the tray somewhere warm: aubergines only germinate reliably from 20 to 25 °C, and 25 to 28 °C is ideal. Cover the tray with a lid or a clear propagator cover to keep the moisture in; germination takes 15 to 21 days, depending on temperature. As soon as the seedlings appear, give them a very bright spot without fail, otherwise they turn leggy (long, thin, pale shoots). Prick out into individual pots when the first true pair of leaves is visible, and keep night temperatures above 18 °C. From mid-May, once night frosts are no longer a threat, plant out into the open ground or the greenhouse. Aubergines need more warmth than tomatoes: in the climate of Germany, Austria and Switzerland, a sheltered, fully sunny spot, a polytunnel or the greenhouse works well.

Cuttings (supplementary method, worthwhile for valuable varieties): If you want to save a special variety over the winter, take shoot tips 8 to 12 cm long in August or September, remove the lower leaves and put the cuttings into moist seed compost or first into a glass of water. At room temperature and in plenty of light, roots form within about two to four weeks; changing the water every few days helps prevent rot. Pot rooted cuttings into nutrient-rich compost and overwinter the plants in a bright, frost-free place at 10 to 15 °C, away from dry heating air; water only sparingly in winter. Because overwintering is demanding and risks pest infestation (e.g. spider mites, whitefly), this method is mainly worthwhile for open-pollinated favourites, which would otherwise be easy to grow again from seed, or for F1 hybrids, which do not come true from seed.

Companion planting

Good neighbors

mint family (Lamiaceae)

particularly well established

You will find that basil next to tomato and pepper improves taste and keeps whiteflies and aphids away.

For example LavenderThymeRosemarySageHyssopBee balm and 42 more species in the catalogue

Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)

borage family (Boraginaceae)

Borage attracts pollinators and is supposed to keep tomato pests away from the nightshade family.

For example BorageCommon comfreyLacy phaceliaForget-me-notLungwortSiberian bugloss and 2 more species in the catalogue

Source: organic greenhouse companion planting practice

Rather not

gourd family (Cucurbitaceae)

You should avoid planting potato and cucumber together because they share disease pathogens such as leaf and brown rot and stand in each other's way as strong feeders.

For example CucumberPumpkinCourgettePickling cucumberButternutHokkaido and 15 more species in the catalogue

Source: basic crop-rotation rule

Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.

Some of these explanations were machine-translated.

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Varieties

7 varieties
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