Lemon balm

Lemon balm is fully hardy in the bed and needs no active winter protection. The above-ground shoots die back after frost, and the rootstock sprouts again in spring. At most in harsh locations or in the first winter, cover the root zone loosely with some leaves or brushwood, and avoid thick, wet layers so that the soil can dry out; in a tub, place the pot sheltered against a wall and wrap it in horticultural fleece, or overwinter it cool and frost-free.

You can propagate lemon balm in three ways. All three are quite practical in a home garden.

Sowing (light germinator): Sow indoors from February or directly outdoors from the end of April. The seeds need light to germinate, so do not cover them with soil, just press them down lightly and keep them evenly moist without waterlogging. At around 18 to 20 °C the seedlings appear after about one to two weeks. After the Ice Saints (mid-May) you can plant out young plants raised indoors.

Cuttings: The best period is May to August. Cut healthy, non-flowering shoot tips 10 to 15 cm long, remove the lower leaves and insert them in moist, free-draining seed compost; alternatively they also root in a glass of water. Place them bright but not in full sun. At 20 to 25 °C the first roots appear after about two weeks; after three to four weeks you can pot the young plants on into ordinary herb compost.

Division: The simplest method for established plants. In spring just before new growth, or in autumn after the growing phase, dig up the root ball completely and divide it with a sharp spade into two to three equal pieces, each carrying roots and shoot buds. Replant the pieces immediately and water them in well. This way you can at the same time rejuvenate overaged, woody clumps (after 3 to 4 years).