Brassica oleracea var. palmifolia
Palm kale
Common names: Black kale, Tuscan kale, Cavolo Nero
At a glance
- Light
- Full sun
- Spacing
- 45 cm, rows 60 cm
- Lifespan
- Biennial
- Sowing
- Apr–Jun
- Harvest
- Jan, Feb, Oct, Nov, Dec
- Hardiness
- Hardy down to −12 °C
- Water need
- Medium
- For children
- Well suited
Photo: Raffi Kojian · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Source
This description was machine-translated.
Description
Palm kale (Brassica oleracea var. palmifolia) does not form a head but produces long stems with dark‑green, fan‑shaped leaves that resemble a small palm. It is extremely winter‑hardy and tastes best after the first frosts, mild, slightly nutty and buttery tender.
Care instructions
Plant after May in humus‑rich soil. Harvest leaves continuously from the bottom up; the plant will keep growing for weeks. Leave it in place through winter, frost sweetens and softens the leaves. Water regularly during dry summers to prevent young leaves from becoming tough.
The care notes were machine-translated from German.
Garden year
SowingApr–Jun
HarvestJan–Feb, Oct–Dec
Germination
- Soil temperature
- from 5 °C, ideally 20 °C
- Days to sprout
- 4 to 10 days
- Light
- Sprouts in light or dark
- Sowing depth
- 1 cm
- How to start
- Start indoors, then plant out
Soil & site
Soil pH
Soil type
loamy, humus-rich, well-drained, nutrient-rich
Palm kale needs deep, nutrient-rich, evenly moist soil with good drainage; loamy, humus-rich soils are ideal, and you improve sandy ones beforehand with mature compost. As a lime-loving brassica, it likes a slightly raised pH towards 7.0 to 7.5; this also helps prevent clubroot; be sure to avoid waterlogging.
Brassicas are heavy feeders and prone to clubroot; leave a 4-year break and do not follow directly on other crucifers such as radishes or mustard.
Feeding
Heavy feeder
Months
Mar–Aug
In spring, before planting out, work mature compost and horn shavings shallowly into the soil. After it has established, feed organically through the season, for example with diluted nettle liquid feed or compost tea, and repeat this at intervals of several weeks into late summer. From early autumn, stop nitrogen-heavy doses so the tissue hardens and tolerates frost better.
Overwintering
Palm kale is less hardy than kale: in a wind-sheltered spot it survives light frosts; in severe frost or frost without snow, cover it from mid-November with autumn leaves or brushwood and lay garden fleece over the top as well. In a pot, wrap the container and place it against a sheltered house wall so the root ball does not freeze through. It stays outdoors, because you harvest the lower leaves fresh over the winter from the bottom up and leave the heart standing.
Propagation
Methods
- From seed
In the home garden you propagate palm kale exclusively by sowing. Raise it indoors from mid to late March on the windowsill or in a cold frame: sow the seeds in a seed tray with loose substrate, about 1 cm deep, 4 to 5 cm apart. At germination temperatures around 16 °C the first seedlings appear after about 7 to 14 days. Once the young plants are past the seed leaves and show their first true leaves, prick them out into small individual pots. After four to six weeks the strong plants go into the bed, at the earliest after the Ice Saints in mid-May. You can also sow directly outdoors from mid-May to July. Planting distance in the bed: at least 50 × 50 cm, as palm kale reaches stately heights.
If you want to collect your own seed, leave one or, better, several strong plants standing over winter: palm kale is biennial and flowers only in the following year from May, with pale yellow flowers. Since it is only moderately hardy and does not tolerate severe frost, protect overwintering plants with horticultural fleece or bring them through the winter in a frost-free, cool room (about 1 to 5 °C). In spring they sprout, flower and form long seed pods. When the pods turn brown and rustle, cut off the seed heads and dry them further. The small, round seeds can then be stored for several years and stay viable.
Important for seed true to type: palm kale is a cross-pollinator and crosses via insects with other Brassica oleracea relatives (kale, white cabbage, red cabbage, savoy cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, broccoli, kohlrabi). For seed collecting, therefore, let only one Brassica oleracea variety flower at a time or keep spatial distance, otherwise the varieties mix.
Companion planting
Good neighbors
legume family (Fabaceae)
particularly well establishedLeguminous plants collect nitrogen in the soil, from which Brassicaceae benefit as heavy feeders.
For example Bush beanPole beanBroad beanSnow peaWrinkled peaRunner bean and 35 more species in the catalogue
Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)
carrot family (Apiaceae)
You can pair celery and dill with all Brassicaceae because they repel the cabbage whitefly with their scent, a proven companion.
For example CarrotCeleriacDillParsleyFlorence fennelCoriander and 21 more species in the catalogue
Source: Bio-Gärtnerei Mixed-culture Practice
mint family (Lamiaceae)
You will notice that the intense scent of basil, thyme, and others confuses the cabbage whitefly and keeps it away from the cabbage family.
For example LavenderThymeBasilRosemarySageHyssop and 43 more species in the catalogue
Source: bio-gardening intercropping practice
nasturtium family (Tropaeolaceae)
Nasturtium serves as a trap plant for you. Aphids and cabbage whiteflies prefer it over the brassicaceae next to it.
For example NasturtiumMashua
Source: Trap plant practice in organic horticulture
Rather not
Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.
Some of these explanations were machine-translated.
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