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Phaseolus coccineus

Runner bean

Common names: Scarlet runner bean

At a glance

Light
Full sun
Spacing
12 cm, rows 60 cm
Lifespan
Annual
Sowing
May–Jun
Harvest
Aug–Oct
Hardiness
Cold damage below 1 °C
Water need
High
Runner bean

Description

The runner bean (Phaseolus coccineus) is prized for its bright red flowers that attract bumblebees and honeybees, making it both ornamental and productive. Its large, marbled seeds are a salad classic in Austria. It tolerates slightly cooler sites better than the common garden bean and can be grown as a perennial if the tuber is wintered frost‑free.

Care instructions

Set up a tall, sturdy trellis and plant the large seeds around mid‑May (week 20) about 4 cm deep at the base of the stakes. The runner bean requires more water than other beans, water thoroughly during dry periods, otherwise the flowers will drop. Harvest the pods young as a vegetable bean or allow them to fully dry for marbled dry beans.

The care notes were machine-translated from German.

Garden year

SowingMay–Jun

HarvestAug–Oct

Germination

Soil temperature
from 10 °C, ideally 22 °C
Days to sprout
7 to 14 days
Light
Sprouts in light or dark
Sowing depth
4 cm
How to start
Sow straight into the bed

Soil & site

Soil pH

4.0pH 6–7.58.0

Soil type

loamy, humus-rich, well-drained, moist, nutrient-rich

LightFull sun
Hours of sunat least 6 h a day
HardinessFrost-sensitive
Crop rotationLegumes
Water needHigh

Give the runner bean a loose, humus-rich, evenly moist soil without waterlogging; on heavy clay soils, loosen it with mature compost before sowing. It comes from cool, damp mountain regions and copes better with heavier soils than the dwarf French bean; sandy soils hold too little moisture for it.

Legumes collect nitrogen via nodule bacteria and are an ideal preceding crop for heavy feeders. They themselves need a break of about 4 years in the same place.

Feeding

Medium feeder

Months

Mar–Apr

In spring, before sowing, work mature compost in shallowly. That is the basic supply. As a legume, the runner bean fixes atmospheric nitrogen itself via its root nodules, so you do not need any additional nitrogen; too much nitrogen only promotes foliage instead of pods. During the main growing period, around flowering, you can help along with a little compost if the soil is poor.

Overwintering

The runner bean is not hardy where you are. It dies back above ground with the first frost. You can either treat it as an annual and sow anew in spring, or dig up the fleshy root tubers in autumn, cut back the foliage and store the tubers cool, dark and lightly moist in sand or soil (like dahlias); from mid-April you plant them out again, and they then shoot earlier.

Propagation

Methods

  • From seed
  • Division

In a Central European home garden, you propagate the runner bean mainly by sowing; in addition, you can keep it going vegetatively via its storage roots. Sowing: from mid-April, start it off on a windowsill. Place one seed about 3 to 5 cm deep in each pot of seed compost and keep it warm (at least 15 °C). If you want to speed up germination, soak the seeds in lukewarm water for 12 to 24 hours before sowing. From mid-May, after the Ice Saints, when frost is no longer a risk, you can sow straight outdoors or plant out the plants you started indoors. Choose a sunny spot with a climbing support set up (canes, obelisk, fence) and place the seeds 30 to 50 cm apart, with 80 to 100 cm between rows. Beans usually germinate within 7 to 14 days. Saving your own seed is easy: let a few pods ripen and dry completely on the plant, then remove the seeds and keep them dry and dark until the next season. This gives you offspring true to variety. Vegetative propagation via the root (division/overwintering): unlike the annual French bean, the runner bean forms fleshy storage roots, which you can overwinter like dahlia tubers. In autumn, before the ground freezes, cut the vines about 20 cm above the root and dig up the root. Store it in damp sand or sandy soil, cool, dark and frost-free (cellar), keeping it lightly moist from time to time. From mid to late April you replant the root, one per climbing pole, and cover it with mulch. Older, strong roots shoot particularly vigorously and flower earlier than freshly sown plants; a large root can be divided when replanting. This way a proven plant is kept going for years.

Companion planting

Good neighbors

cabbage family (Brassicaceae)

particularly well established

Leguminous plants collect nitrogen in the soil, from which Brassicaceae benefit as heavy feeders.

For example White cabbageKohlrabiRadishKalebroccolicauliflower and 41 more species in the catalogue

Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)

carrot family (Apiaceae)

Peas and beans provide carrot and celery with nitrogen and grow as shallow-rooted plants without competition next to each other.

For example CarrotCeleriacDillParsleyFlorence fennelCoriander and 21 more species in the catalogue

Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)

gourd family (Cucurbitaceae)

Beans and peas enrich the soil with nitrogen, which cucurbits, as heavy feeders, can make good use of.

For example PumpkinPickling cucumberButternutHokkaidoPatissonSpaghetti squash and 13 more species in the catalogue

Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)

Rather not

amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae)

particularly well established

Allium species inhibit the nitrogen‑fixing rhizobia of legumes through their root exudates, which slows their growth.

For example ChivesWild daffodilRocamboleElephant garlicRed OnionShallot and 9 more species in the catalogue

Source: basic crop‑rotation rule

Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.

Some of these explanations were machine-translated.

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For your garden

Grow Runner bean yourself

Gartenkern tells you when frost is coming, when to sow and when to harvest, for your location.

Varieties

3 varieties
View all 3 varieties

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