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Raphanus sativus var. longipinnatus

Radish

Common names: Daikon, Bier radish

At a glance

Light
Full sun
Spacing
12 cm, rows 25 cm
Lifespan
Annual
Sowing
Apr–Aug
Harvest
Jun–Nov
Hardiness
Cold damage below −4 °C
Water need
Medium
For children
Well suited
Radish

Photo: Jason7825 · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Source

This description was machine-translated.

Description

The radish is a sharp‑spiced root vegetable that ranges from the small summer variety to the large white Daikon, encompassing many forms. It grows quickly and can be successfully cultivated in pots as well. Depending on the sowing time, you can harvest crisp tubers for summer use or produce storage‑capable autumn radishes.

Care instructions

Sow from April to August directly into the garden bed and keep the soil consistently moist, as dryness makes the radish feel rough and excessively sharp. Space the rows about one hand’s width apart and harvest when the tubers reach their typical size for the variety, over‑grown radishes become woody.

The care notes were machine-translated from German.

Garden year

SowingApr–Aug

HarvestJun–Nov

Germination

Soil temperature
from 5 °C, ideally 20 °C
Days to sprout
3 to 7 days
Light
Sprouts in light or dark
Sowing depth
1 cm
How to start
Sow straight into the bed

Soil & site

Soil pH

4.0pH 6–78.0

Soil type

humus-rich, well-drained, loamy, nutrient-rich

LightFull sun
Hours of sunat least 6 h a day
HardinessFrost-sensitive
Crop rotationBrassicas
Water needMedium

Give daikon deep, loose, stone-free soil with a good humus content and even moisture, ideally sandy-loamy. Compacted, heavy or stony spots lead to deformed roots, so loosen them deeply. Asian varieties (daikon) need especially deeply loosened soil for their long root.

Brassicas are heavy feeders and susceptible to clubroot. Keep a 4-year break and do not follow directly on other crucifers such as radishes or mustard.

Feeding

Medium feeder

Months

Mar, Apr, Jun, Jul

Before sowing, work mature compost in shallowly, in spring (March/April) or before the summer sowing for autumn and winter radishes (June/July). On lean soils you can also mix in horn shavings as a slow-acting organic nitrogen source. Further feeding is usually not necessary: too much nitrogen drives the leaves at the expense of the root and promotes nitrate accumulation. Avoid fresh manure.

Overwintering

Harvest your daikon before the first hard frost, cut off the foliage and layer the roots in slightly moist sand. Stored like this in a cool, dark, frost-free cellar (or a clamp), they stay crisp over winter.

Propagation

Methods

  • From seed

You propagate daikon exclusively by direct sowing outdoors; it forms no runners, cannot be divided and is not grafted. Sow the seeds directly in place in rows from April to early August, about 1 cm deep, with about 5 cm between plants in the row and 25 to 30 cm between rows. Early and summer varieties can be sown in succession every 2 to 3 weeks so that you have a continuous harvest; autumn and winter radishes (for example daikon) only go into the bed from early July. The soil should be at least 8 °C. Thin the seedlings at the seed-leaf stage to 15 to 20 cm apart so that the roots can develop fully.

If you want to save your own seed, you need several plants: daikon is self-incompatible, so a single plant hardly sets any seed. So leave at least five to six strong specimens of a variety standing and do not harvest them; the more plants, the more vigorous the seed. They bolt into flower the following year (or in the same year with summer sowing and great heat) and form pods; insects take care of pollination from plant to plant. Wait until the pods are brown and almost dry, then cut off the shoots and let them ripen further on newspaper. Roll the dry pods out in a cloth bag with a rolling pin to release the seeds. Important: daikon crosses easily with radishes and other Raphanus varieties via insects. For seed that comes true to variety, only one variety should flower at a time, or a clear distance should be kept. In the home garden a separation of a few hundred metres is usually enough; alternatively, stagger the flowering of varieties in time. Stored dry and cool, the seed stays viable for around 4 to 5 years.

Companion planting

Good neighbors

legume family (Fabaceae)

particularly well established

Leguminous plants collect nitrogen in the soil, from which Brassicaceae benefit as heavy feeders.

For example Bush beanPole beanBroad beanSnow peaWrinkled peaRunner bean and 35 more species in the catalogue

Source: classic companion planting (DACH-Gartenpraxis)

carrot family (Apiaceae)

You can pair celery and dill with all Brassicaceae because they repel the cabbage whitefly with their scent, a proven companion.

For example CeleriacDillParsleyFlorence fennelCorianderCelery (Stalk Celery) and 20 more species in the catalogue

Source: Bio-Gärtnerei Mixed-culture Practice

mint family (Lamiaceae)

You will notice that the intense scent of basil, thyme, and others confuses the cabbage whitefly and keeps it away from the cabbage family.

For example LavenderThymeBasilRosemarySageHyssop and 43 more species in the catalogue

Source: bio-gardening intercropping practice

nasturtium family (Tropaeolaceae)

Nasturtium serves as a trap plant for you. Aphids and cabbage whiteflies prefer it over the brassicaceae next to it.

For example NasturtiumMashua

Source: Trap plant practice in organic horticulture

Companion planting is partly traditional gardening lore. Where the reason is known, it is given.

Some of these explanations were machine-translated.

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Varieties

5 varieties
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